Toulouse Part 7: Thursday Evening Sketchwalk

September 10, 2026September 10, 2026Leave a comment

The Thursday evening Sketchwalk was quite far from the Hub, but I jumped on the Metro for a few stops and found myself next to the cathedral of Saint-Étienne. The summer evening sunlight was dripping with gold. I was early for the Sketchwalk (since it was about 40 minutes’ walk from the Hub, most people did that, adding to their already massive step count for the day. Looking at the map, the end point of this Sketchwalk should not be too far, at the Museum de Toulouse (where I think the limited-ticket Drink and draw event was going to happen that night, but I was not fast enough to pay extra for that ticket). Actually it was about another 25-30 minutes away on foot, accounting for getting lost a few times, which not only eats into your sketching time but also, why so far from the start point for such a short Sketchwalk? I wasn’t thinking of that when I got a headstart on my evening sketching. Actually I first sketched a fire hydrant around the corner from the cathedral (see below), and as I sketched I had a conversation with a young sketcher from Germany who had travelled to Toulouse with her partner for the Symposium, but not as registered attendees. There were a lot of non-registered sketchers here, as there were in Poznan, and it really made it all feel as though this was the global capital of sketching for a few days. It’s inspiring for those of us who like to draw everything. Anyway I found a spot in some shade to draw the back of the cathedral, and decided to draw in pencil, which was slightly faster, but not really by that much. I loved the really thick charcoal pencil I used for the tree foliage in the foreground though, it’s one of those I have in my bag from a previous Symposium that I never use, but it’s fun to experiment. As I stood sketching, as I always do, my legs started to feel all that walking. A restaurant was opening up nearby, some of the workers were sat outside before their shifts. One of the women who worked there came up and asked if I’d like a seat, since they didn’t have any customers yet, which was very nice of her. She brought a seat out to me and I was able to rest while adding in the paint. Still it took me an hour to draw it. I was really happy with it. I do wish I had drawn the view from the front as well though, in the main Place. I saw a lot of people sketching that and their drawings were amazing, but I didn;t have time because I had to go on a long expedition to find the Sketchwalk’s distant end point.

Pete in sunglasses standing in front of Cathedrale St. Etienne in Toulouse holding up a sketch of the cathedral.

Here is that little fire hydrant (inside its protective shell as many are here) in a quiet street, covered in stickers. Another one for the collection.

It was a long journey to the end point by the Museum of Toulouse, and by the time I got there, there was o time at all for sketching, and I missed the throw-down (not worried about that, I never like those), and the final photograph (would have been nice, but ‘tant pis’). I did find the spot where Simon de Montfort died, which was impressive, there was a big plaque commemorating his death at the Siege of Toulouse fighting in the Albigensian Crusade. I always thought he died in battle in England, but it turns out that was the younger Simon de Montfort, the one who led the Barons’ revolts against the king in the mid 13th century and effectively ruled England. This one was the father, the Elder, I always forget there were more than one. Still, very impressed to find big historical landmarks. There were a lot of people still about at the end of this Sketchwalk and I was talking to some sketchers from England, one of whom was Si Newell, whose amazing work I have followed for years but I had never met (though I did sketch him at a London sketchwalk years ago, but didn’t realize that he was Si Newell at the time). It was amazing to look through his book in person, his style is so distinctive, I remember Gerard Michel enthusing about him years ago. Anyway a whole group of us went to dinner, sketchers from all over the world, at an Italian restaurant nearby. It was so hot, everyone was so sweaty. It was nice but we ate so late; I had seen Len Grant at another table eating a delicious looking pasta dish so I ordered the same thing, but it actually came with loads of bacon on it, I don’t eat that so had to have that taken off, but embarassing, but the pasta was lovely. I still came nowhere near finishing it, it was a huge dish and I was stuffed. Everyone was talking to each other though, these are always the best moments of the Symposium, though I think I was the only one sketching. I tried to draw as many of the people there as I could, though I was pretty exhausted by this point it was still a fund way to capture the evening. There was a pair of large naked green statues behind Si (he is the one in the middle with the beard). I didn’t have room for desert, but I had a very refreshing beer before the walk back to the hotel.

As I was getting back to Place Capitole to my hotel, I walked past a table and saw a bunch of old friends, Lapin, Arnaud, Mauro and some others, and Dan Archer who I’d met the previous year, so I stopped to chat and sketch with them for a little bit. Lapin’s family were there, I don’t think I’d met his wife before and his daughter was a baby last time I saw her. I had made these little blank Panini football style stickers to draw people on, but kept forgetting to actually sketch on them so I drew a few here, really quick tired sketches, and gave them out. I think they were the only ones I did on the trip, but it’s an idea I’ll keep for a future sketching event. Lapin had been drawing his famous portraits on beermats this time, and so he did a sketch of me and gifted it to me, it’s very cool. I still remember him drawing my hand on the night before the very first Symposium (how young we all were) and calling it ‘L’incroyable tenu de crayon de Pete’ (because of the way I hold my pen, which gets remarked upon a lot, and after that it became the official name for it). By this time I was exhausted and well in need for a good night’s sleep, and I slept well.

Toulouse Part 6: Róisín’s Thursday Afternoon Demo

September 8, 2026Leave a comment

Thursday afternoon in Toulouse. After my break at the hotel I had a late lunch at a little place called ‘Les Burgers de Papa’ on Rue des Lois, and had a conversation with a French sketcher who was in there too, before walking to the Hub to join the gathering for the Afternoon Demos. This is the part of the Symposium where everybody has to pick a Demo (when they register, in the few seconds they have to decide their whole schedule), just one Demo, and then everyone heads out en masse to a spot where their Demo instructor will give a demonstration of their urban sketching theme or technique, and speak and draw or paint for about an hour while you watch. Often during workshops there is never enough time to just watch the instructor do a full picture so these can be useful, but there’s only one opportunity to attend a Demo. I quite like them because they are a bit more relaxed. In Toulouse, one thing it did mean was even more walking. After the long walk up to the Hub, our group gathered and then had another very long walk (about 30 minutes) back down to a shaded square overlooking the Garonne. I had signed up for Róisín Curé’s Demo on ‘Fast People Sketching’. Since this is something I like to do a lot at Symposiums I was interested to pick up some different tips and tools, and Róisín (who is an urban sketcher from Galway) spoke a lot and shared a lot of techniques. I had originally signed up for her Workshop, but changed to Marielle Durand’s one afterwards (big fan of Marielle’s work and wanted to learn her technique; see the post on that Workshop later!), I switched from the first Demo I’d signed up for to this one. We gathered under the shade of some big plane trees and Róisín started quick sketches of people that were sat at nearby cafes, and I took the opportunity to sketch the scene myself, taking notes as I do. One of my favourite moments from the Poznan Symposium was sketching Stephanie Bower’s Demo, drawing all the people there watching, and then meeting and speaking to them after. It is a fun way to document what the Symposium is all about. In the sketch above, the guy I captured briefly in the hat is a sketcher from Croatia called Mario that I spoke with afterwards and now follow, he was nice and he just mailed me a copy of his sketching zine from Hvar, that was a great read. Below, I drew the volunteer (whose name I didn’t catch), she was seated and would be translating some of Róisín’s comments into Spanish for a couple of the Spanish-speaking sketchers who were there.

There is Róisín again above talking and sketching. It was pretty hot out and everyone was sweating, but I was glad for the shade. There were some other Demos happening nearby, I spoke with one sketcher from England (Peter) that I’ve met a few times who had left his assigned Demo because it was not interesting, better to wander and sketch. I really enjoyed this one though and wanted to sketch the scene from the other side, so I drew the group there fast, adding in a few pink shapes for the background, it was all it needed. I liked that massive stripy hat that one woman was wearing, I did draw her hat twice during this Symposium as she ended up in one of my Saturday sketches too, when she was sketching nearby, though I never spoke to her. I did chat with some other sketchers after the Demo and walked back to the Hub (another long walk) with a sketcher from Germany, Gabriela, in time for the start of the next activity, the evening Sketchwalk (which would be taking place about 40 minutes’ walk from the Hub, seriously; thankfully for that, I jumped on the Metro, but a lot of people did make the trek). Too much walking in the late afternoon heat. I drank plenty of water.

Toulouse Part 5: Thursday Morning

September 5, 20262 Comments

After the Halle de La Machine on Wednesday I went straight to the Symposium Hub, which was at a municipal building called Pierre Baudis, and unlike at any other symposium there was a security search and metal detectors before you could go inside. That slowed things down, and there was a long line to enter the building. Good place to chat to people, but it was annoying to have to do that every day. It was packed inside, but the system to get registered and pick up the lanyard and goody bag was well run; there were about 800 sketchers registered for this event, it was massive compared to how it used to be. Like last year, more than half were first-time Symposium attendees too. It really has grown so, so much since that first Symposium in 2010 (see these posts with tag “UskPDX10”!), and since Urban Sketchers launched in 2008 (see this post!). So many people were in pink, the colour of Toulouse, and not just the hi-viz volunteers. It was very exciting. It was also still so very hot, and not any less sweaty inside. I did sketch during the opening reception, and caught up with old sketching friends, but I will post that separately. I then went quickly to watch the England semi-final at a pub which, very annoyingly, they lost, against that lot. I already posted that. Let’s fast forward to Thursday morning, then. After a nice breakfast at the hotel I walked up to the Hub, about 20-25 minutes from my hotel, to catch the morning remarks. Of course I missed those, because the line to get through security was really long. Hopefully I didn’t miss anything too important. I did at least arrive in time for the Presentations, which is always one of my favourite parts of a Symposium, getting to hear another urban sketcher speak about something, I find it really inspiring. Last year’s ones (Elizabeth Alley adventuring in the Arctic, Rita Sabler telling difficult stories around the world and Detlef Surrey following the Berlin Wall) were really fascinating. I like to draw these talks and take loads of notes of course, as I do all the time anyway. This one was by Len Grant, a Manchester based artist whose work I’ve followed for a while, I think since the Manchester 2016 Symposium. He was presenting on the theme of “Publishing a Neighbourhood Sketchbook in 154 Easy Steps”. Since this is something I have been thinking about doing for ages, Davis, I was particularly interested in what he had to say. His books look great, and his talk was very funny, I took a lot of notes. I sat next to Yves Damin from Paris who also sketched. I am always surprised at how few people are sketching along at these talks these days, but I’m someone who can’t really stop. Len said he has four books based on neighbourhoods in Manchester, and that got me thinking, yeah I could do two about Davis, one for the city and one for the campus, but then what about London, I would love to do a Burnt Oak and Edgware book, then do one for every other part of London that has meaning to me, Crouch End and Highgate, Camden Town, Tottenham, and then I think wait, I’ve been talking about a Davis one for more than a decade and still haven’t found time. Well maybe I’ll get going on that. If I get time.

I had a one-workshop Symposium pass this time, same as last year, but my workshop was not until Friday so I joined the Thursday Morning Sketchwalk, which was going to be starting at the same place as the Welcome Sketchwalk the day before, down by the river. It was a fairly long walk down there but there were people to talk to. Spotting symposium attendees all around was easy enough, with our orange lanyards and nametags (great for when you can’t remember people’s names) and those bright yellow bags that all the art goodies came in, they might be my favourite symposium bags yet, with ‘Loulou’ on them. I sketched some of the volunteers at the start as we all gathered, many others were heading off on their workshops, and those tall sticks with the pink signs on were very helpful. The army of volunteers really made the whole thing run smoothly.

We gathered to sketch on the high Embankments by Place de la Daurade. The panorama sketch above was of sketchers looking out across the Garonne. It had pre-splattered it with light coloured paint, in fact this was done a couple of days before because I had expected to eb drawing fireworks but that didn’t happen, so I drew sketchers. Genine Carvalheira is there on the left, and there was a sketcher from Canada over there too who I spoke to for a bit (but cannot remember her name; this is why I write them down!). The others were a group of sketchers from Madrid who I didn’t get a chance to speak to that day, but I happened upon them a few days later in Carcassonne, and sketched alongside them, and made friends with them even though I speak no Spanish and they spoke no English. We speak Urban Sketching. Lovely people, they gave me an Urban Sketchers Madrid badge.

Here are a few more people I sketched down there, above you have Sander from Mechelen, in Belgium, sat sketching with his headphones on, we spoke for a little while, and then I drew a couple of sketchers from Austria, Victoria Krisai and Jelde Flessner (I mis-spelled his first name), very quick sketchesjust to capture the moment. I liked his pink hat.

One thing I will say about the Sketchwalks in Toulouse versus the ones in Poznan, the ones this year tended to cover a very large area, a long walk between start and end points, and also they are advertised only to Symposium attendees and not to the general public. That’s two things I will say about the Sketchwalks. I didn’t mind so much the second because the non-registered people found them anyway; there are always a lot of people who come for the ride, who could not get a regular ticket, but are still a big part of the whole Symposium experience and I met a lot of ‘Symposium Fringe’ sketchers, several of my sketching friends did just that. They don’t get the orange lanyard or the yellow bag, but Urban Sketchers did design a special Urban Sketching ID badge this year that people can download and wear even if they are independent sketchers in the whole thing, which is nice. Still, Poznan advertised their Sketchwalks with a lot of advance notice, Toulouse however may have been more conscious of the crowds, and not without reason – that Welcome Sketchcrawl was really over-populated, as was the final one on Saturday, so I can see why. No, my gripe was the long distance covered, and it was like that for all of them. One of the Sketchwalks had an end point over 30 minutes’ walk from the start and when you are sketching and it’s hot, that’s a long way to go for a short event (I walked and timed it, but missed the actual end photo). Just have it closer, focus on one area. This one was a bit of a walk too, but it was at Place du Capitole, right by my hotel, so not as bad. Before heading up there though I stopped to draw the scene above, because I loved all those rooftops. I wish I’d had a higher vantage point, so I could sketch them from above. I drew fast, then dashed up to the end point, where I didn’t miss the photo, I just didn’t join it because I was talking to people. I did a couple more people sketches (the one on the left, below, is of my long-time Urban Sketchers pal Omar Jaramillo, though it’s not very accurate, I was hot and tired. We got a nice photo together after. I declined to go to lunch though as I needed to rest and shower, the Toulouse heat already getting to me. I am glad I did. The next event was later in the afternoon, the Live Demos, and that was a walk back to the Hub and another walk back to the River. I definitely got my steps in in Toulouse.

Toulouse Part 3: Big Wednesday Morning Sketchwalk

September 2, 2026Leave a comment

After a good nights sleep (I had expected French fans partying in the street until the wee hours, but they lost the semi-final to Spain), I woke up early on July 15 and had a nice breakfast at the hotel. This was the first day of the Symposium, but official check-in wasn’t until late afternoon, and I had the day to do whatever I wanted, as long as it was sketching. There was going to be a big ‘welcome sketchwalk’ down by the river in the morning, open to anybody whether part of the Symposium or not, so that was my plan. I also wanted to try to get down to the Halle de la Machine as well, and sketch the big Minotaur. thankfully after the roasting hot day before, this morning was much cooler, with some cloud providing a bit of a break from the oppressive sun. (Spoiler Alert, it didn’t last and the afternoon was even hotter) I walked down Rue Gambetta, which is where my hotel was (on the corner of Place de la Capitole) and it turned out that Rue Gambetta was the most interesting street in France. It had great cafes and bars, sure, but it had record shops, comic shops, loads of bookshops (most of which turned out all to be the same huge bookshop with different entrances, based on its themed areas), games shops, guitar shops, and even (and I am not makin this up) a football shirts shop, in which they had many classic shirts including the maroon Portland Timbers shirt I got a couple of years ago. I stood outside a board games shop which had not opened yet, and drew the scene above. It was a fairly narrow sidewalk, and as I sketched, various fellow sketchers passed by, on their way down to the Garonne. I recognized a few, who said hello/bonjour, and as more and more people passed by with sketchbooks and stools over their shoulder I was definitely getting excited. Like when you go to a football match and see your people on the tube in their Spurs shirts, and then you do the long walk up Seven Sisters, and you get closer to the stadium and can hear the crowd and smell the onions on the hot dog stand, and the people selling scarves and programmes, and the lads coming out of the pub and the kids on their dads’ shoulders. Well it wasn’t really like that at all, actually, but I was still excited to be at the Symposium, around the world’s sketchers again. My crowd. It might have felt a little performative, standing sketching while everyone was heading towards the sketchwalk, but urban sketching is urban theatre, “all the world’s a page” and all that. (I thought of that phrase a few years ago when writing a workshop I never ended up teaching) When I’d done enough I walked down Gambetta towards Place de la Daurade, where the Sketchwalk was happening. And wow, there were a LOT of people down by the river.

I saw some people I recognized and said hello, but mostly just wandered about looking for sketchers to draw. I zeroed in on this one guy in a beret, whose name was Akalu, and who lived in Michigan (but originally from Ethiopia). I wanted to sketch fast and often, using my fountain pen in my little brown book. It was nice to chat with people, find out what they like sketching, and be friendly and open. The Symposiums are so, so big now that it can be easy to feel a little lost in the throng, and a usually shy person like me would, if this were my first one, probably just hide. I still do, really. So I like to try to talk to people, and sketch them. I met a lot of people I didn’t sketch, and among all the people there I do now find it hard to remember people as well when I’ve not sketched them too. Oh by the way, the little stamp on the page, that was the official Symposium logo, the little mascot is called ‘Loulou‘ and was designed by local illustrator Olivia Marcus. I loved the logo. Also below, I met a sketcher from Houston called Chris Fitzgerald, who told me stories about San Francisco while I drew her. Then (after spotting my old pal Omar who I last saw in berlin last year) I found a spot with a view across the river, among the trees and the hundreds of people, and tried to capture the scene (above). This was a lot of sketchers. Probably too many sketchers. But each of them was doing what we do, just drawing the world, like I do every day. Capturing the occasion. I listened in to people talking to each other, in English and in French (and some German). I always worry in crowds like this whether I’m going to get a bit lost and not find the people I know, but as I wandered about, I came across them, had a few nice reunions.

I did want to sketch the sketchers hard at work though. Usually I’d go and show them, sometimes I’d forget. You can see in the second sketch below there’s one of the volunteers, wearing the distinctive bright pink hi-viz vest they made them all wear. I really liked her yellow bumblebee-striped hat.

It was so nice beside the river. I drew the sketcher above, whose name was Heike (she was from either Germany or Austria), and then sketched the two ladies fanning themselves on the embankment. It was already getting very warm. I ended up getting one of those hand-held paper fans myself, as many people did, and made good use of it during that week. And then, we all gathered up to look at all of our sketchbooks, but there were so many people that I didn’t really see anything. As we know I’m not a fan of the whole “put your book on the floor and have loads of people wonder whose book it is” thing they like to do at the sketchwalks. I wandered off back to the hotel, and planned the rest of my day. It was definitely getting hot again, there was no escaping it.

Toulouse, Part 1: sketching the Garonne

August 27, 2026Leave a comment

Alors! Instead of continuing to play catch up and post things in order, before this summer slips away I am going to post my sketches and stories from the 2026 International Urban Sketching Symposium in TOULOUSE, France. It’s now over a month since the Symposium ended and I am still brimming with sketching energy and missing all the interactions with urban sketchers from around the world, though I am not missing the sweaty, sticky heat. I did a lot of drawing, though I always come away thinking ‘but it wasn’t enough’, having seen so many other sketchbooks. I did a lot of urban exploring but again always feel I could have seen more (if the sketching didn’t slow me down). I met a lot of people and spent time with a lot of old sketching friends (and new ones too), but there’s never enough time to see everyone. I did spend almost a week in Toulouse though, and that was a good time to get to know a place and come away with good memories of somewhere a bit different, but being France, still familiar. Plus I got to speak a decent amount of French to the point where I have been actually trying to keep it up and want to improve it now I am back home again. So let’s get on with it. I landed in Toulouse on July 14th, the Fête Nationale (what we call ‘Bastille Day’ but they don’t really). This was the day that France were due to play Spain in the World Cup semi-finals and I expected people everywhere to be wearing their France shirts and buzzing with excitement since they had been, so far, the best team in the tournament. Except maybe Spain who just looked very solid. In fact people I spoke to were definitely not getting carried away with Les Bleus’ chances, knowing Spain were actually a bit good. Still I was looking forward to some celebrations and fireworks that evening. As it turned out, they held the firework display over the river the night before, and France ended up losing the semi-final. Still, I had a very nice first day in Toulouse, and got right to work with the sketches. The bus from the airport was easy, my hotel was in an amazing central location right by the Place du Capitole, and I walked right down to the Garonne river that afternoon after checking in. It was very hot, and I had taken the long way. I stood in some shade on the high embankments, and looked out over to the Chapelle St. Joseph de la Grave. The Garonne was a fresh greeny-blue matching the dome, and the buildings were reddish-ochre, but you can see why they call Toulouse ‘La Ville Rose’, the Pink City, because in the light everything feels tinged with a bit of pink. The stone on a lot of the buildings does have a pinkish hue, especially in the evening, being made with what they call ‘brique rose’ (pink brick). The bridge to the right is the Pont St. Pierre. This was still early- to mid-afternoon and the sunlight was very strong, and I had to drink a lot of water. It was relaxing to draw by the river though. Three Moroccan lads sat near me and were chatting on their phones, one was admiring the sketch. I had already seen quite a few urban sketchers about town, their familiar sketching poses making me feel right at home, but had not seen anyone else I knew yet. The river turned out to be a place we would come back to sketch a number of times during the Symposium, but I got the big view out of the way first.

I walked further down the high embankment (the Quai Lucien Lombard), shaded with rows of plane trees, and found a spot on the corner to draw the historic Pont Neuf. France likes to call its oldest bridges ‘Pont Neuf’ (back when they made their bridges with irony rather than iron), and this beauty was constructed between 1544 and 1632 (it took a while; the Garonne was not an easy river to tame) and completed by the famed architect Jacques Lemercier during the reign of King Louis XIII. I adored those arches, even though I don’t like drawing arches (add to the list of things I don’t like drawing: circles, feet, hands, dogs, Arsenal shirts). As I sketched I bumped into the first sketchers I knew and they were old urban sketching friends, Liz Steel and Suhita Shirodkar, which was a very nice surprise. There were going to be many hundreds of sketchers all over Toulouse the next few days, so it was nice to bump into people I have known since this Urban Sketchers thing all started. I drew quickly and did what I could with the river, it was the colour I wanted) and started to head back into centre-ville again. There were lots of things I wanted to sketch, but it was so hot so I kept it simple as I headed back towards the hotel, and I drew this really interesting post-box on the corner of Place de la Daurade.Then I went back to the hotel to cool off before heading out for some more sketching before dinner.

I should include my in-flight sketch, Ryanair from Stansted to Toulouse. I always draw on the plane, like most urban sketchers, it’s how I relax and get my sketching exercises in. I had a small A6 size brown Hahnemuhle sketchbook with me, as well as the two A5 Hahhemuhles (one portrait, one landscape), as well as the tiny accordion Hahnemuhle. I should do a post on the materials I took to Toulouse, and those I got while there, but not just yet. The Sun is up now and I need to go for a morning run before work. Join me soon for part 2…

Toulouse: two lose in the semi-finals

August 6, 2026Leave a comment

The Longest World Cup Ever is over, at last, and I am done with football for a while. FIFA and its All-Powerful Leader, He-Who-Must-Be-Shown-Onscreen-In-The-13th-Minute-Of-Every-Game, have been very quiet since it ended, nothing controversial happening, very low profile. Maybe this will be the last ever World Cup. It’s just the shirts I like anyway these days. The game itself, well good games are few and far between. Certainly the World Cup Final was one of the most boring games I have ever pretended to enjoy. I am glad Spain won that final, Argentina were about as anti-football a team in that game since the Argentina of the 1990 final, unsporting thugs. I didn’t sketch the Final, as it came at the end of a very very busy Urban Sketching Symposium in Toulouse, and anyway who would sketch that game, better to just paint my page and watch it dry. The Third Place Game between England and France was unmissable but I missed most of it, because those games are usually missable, and besides I was busy. I did however watch and sketch what I could of the Semi-Finals. I will post the Symposium story and my Toulouse and London sketches soon (and then get back to catching up from 2025, by which time it will be 2028 and time for the Euros). For now tough it seems a good moment to close out my World Cup documentation. I arrived in Toulouse on July 14, which we call Bastille Day but the French call the Fête Nationale. They held the fireworks the night before on the July 13, and this night was all about the football. I watched it in a bar right across the street from my hotel, O’Brien’s, with fellow sketche Kalina. It was full of locals dressed in the colours of Les Bleus (ie, blue), some draped in French flags, lots of bières blondes (it was happy hour, buy one get one free), and a lot of nervous anticipation. I was probably expecting more noise and atmosphere, as France had been the most exciting team in the tournament and I fully expected them to win the whole thing with goals and panache, but people were not getting carried away. Not like in 2002, when they were on top of the world and the atmosphere in France was triumphal to say the least (I was living in Aix that year), until they completely flopped in the group stage. It was a bit more like 1998, I was there for the semi-final then as well, watching it at my friend Roland’s apartment, and people did not want to get too carried away, until the final whistle blew and wow, they were actually in the Final, and would play Brazil, in Paris, and boy did they celebrate that night. Well this night felt a bit more like that, but with the opposite outcome. Even at the start, when the national anthem La Marseillaise played on the TV, it was fairly subdued, save a few people singing the rousing part “aux armes, nos citoyens!”. I had been expecting that scene in Casablanca, or even Escape to Victory, but it was more like the opening to All You Need Is Love. It was a quiet game too, France could not lay a glove on Spain, who were a defensive masterclass without being boring. I had to add in a few yells at the screen on my page, but even they didn’t really happen (nobody says “Zut Alors!” in France, except maybe in the Tricolore textbooks). It became clear that France were not getting back into this game, so there was very little edge-of-your-seat tension, and people seemed a bit relieved it was over by the end. At least France have won two World Cups in our lifetimes (or one, based on the ages of many in the bar), so it’s not like with England and their famous ‘Years-Of-Hurt-Ometer’ which has now been reset to ‘At Least 64’). After the game, many left but the bar did not empty and we stayed and sketched and had fun conversations with some locals, and it was nice.

I did watch the second semi-final, of course, as it was England vs Argentina, and yeah, I am disappointed with the result. I missed half of the first half because I was at the Symposium Opening Reception, but ducked out early to a pub called The George and Dragon, which is about as sure a place to watch an England game as you can get in Toulouse. About half the people in there, maybe less, were in England shirts, the rest were either not really watching, or were French but cheering for Argentina, mostly because Messi, or maybe because they wanted to play England in the 3rd Place game, if they cared about that game. Mostly they wee not that bothered. England were winning for quite a while, and then they weren’t, and then it was extra time, and shortly before the end they weren’t winning even more, and I went back to my hotel to get some pre-Symposium sleep. Football is rubbish anyway, it’s only the shirts that I like. The Premier League will be starting again soon, how excited am I, ooh I can’t contain myself.

BYT I drew these on the reverse side of the accordion sketchbook that I drew the USA-Belgium game on, in the previous post. I got that sketchbook in Poznan in the Sympsoium goody-bag, and I don;t really like the bumpy watercolour paper much.

Anyway, I was in France and London recently and I have so many sketches to post. And then after that, catch up with 2025 and the first half of 2026. I can’t stop sketching.

Bechard Calissons, Aix

September 8, 2024September 9, 20241 Comment

The last of the drawings I did when I got back from our trip was not a London one at all, but a drawing of the Béchard Patissier on the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence. They make and sell ‘Calissons’, a small diamond-lozenge shaped candy made of marzipan that is a famous local delicacy of Aix. I like them, not everyone’s cup of tea, but I always make a bee-line for this place when I visit Aix. Other places do nice ones, but I think Béchard’s calissons are very tasty and well presented, usually in those big white calisson-shaped boxes. I just really like the way the store looks too, and it hasn’t changed at all in all these years. I did draw it when I visited back in 2015, but this time I just took a photo intending on a more detailed drawing later to hang on the wall, which is what I have done. It’s up on the wall now next to those London ones. You can see me there reflected in the doorway, wearing my striped Red Star Paris football shirt (I didn’t bring a Marseille one on this trip). I was going to put this drawing into the Pence’s Art Auction hut I liked looking at it too much, it reminded me of walking up Cours Mirabeau all those years ago, usually on the way to see something at the cinema, I saw the Fellowship of the Ring in there when that first came out and dive right into reading the books afterwards, so I always associate those stories with walking those cobbled streets of Aix at night. I am actually re-listening to the audiobooks of The Lord of the Rings now, and I really love the Rings of Power show. The buildings here in this part of Aix, the Quartier Mazarin, are a particularly golden ochre, especially in the sun, going back to the 17th century. The red and white displays go well against that stonework. Even though I drew this after I got back home to Davis (I have sketched this on site nine years ago already), I enjoyed drawing this and thinking back to those days and nights in Aix twenty-odd years ago.

nice to see you, to see you nice

July 28, 2024July 26, 2024Leave a comment

We took the TGV from Aix to Nice. I do like taking the train in France, and the TGV – I mean, the ‘Ouigo’? – took us through Marseille’s mean quarters and along the rocky coast, which was a lot more grey than azure due to that weather we’d been having. I didn’t mind so much. The previous times I’d been to Nice I had taken a direct coach from Aix, because the regular trains were so slow, taking most of the day stopping at all those Riviera towns. We arrived in Nice in the early afternoon. I had forgotten just how big Nice is, it’s a huge bustling city with a lot of shops. We stayed near the old town a few blocks from the sea. I love being near the sea. The beach at Nice is pebbly, but wide and full of people enjoying the evening. We walked along the long Promenade des Anglais, the traffic intersections were a bit scary when we had to cross over, but it was nice being somewhere so different. I drew the scene above after the family had gone back to the flat, the daylight was still good even quite late, and I sat on the stone steps and sketched.

Before that, we were walking through the old town and saw that the England vs Denmark game was about to start on a big screen outside a tapas bar. Good place to grab some food and drinks and watch the football, it should be exciting. Well, the football may have been one of the most boring games I had ever seen (that is, until the first 94 minutes of England v Slovakia), but it was nice to sit and eat and sketch and listen to the people around us, there was a Danish couple who kept giggling whenever I would complain about how Højbjerg’s shooting and passing was, knowing him from Spurs (and yet, he got man of the match in this game, fair play to him, everyone else was terrible). Occasionally a few drops of Mediterranean rain splashed onto us, but it was fun sketching this and with the lettering at the top it reminded me of a comic book. England would be ‘The Fantastic Bore’. The old town was busy, but much busier on the second night, the same night France were playing against the Netherlands in a game that was equally if not even more boring. We didn’t watch that one out anywhere, not really wanting to be in a big crowd that went crazy after a goal, so we put that one on the TV in our flat in the background. We need not have worried, it ended 0-0. These Euros group stages, man.

I got up in the mornings and went for my usual walk-sketch-boulangerie routine. It was still cloudy on Nice, and I walked down to the old town and drew this pink clock tower, the Tour de l’Horloge, dating from 1718. One thing we were going to do but didn’t was to go up to the big hill with the castle on it, looking over the city and coastline from a great height. The views up there are breathtaking, but so is the walk up the steep staircase, and since the elevator was closed we said, nah we did that in 2002. We walked about the base of the big cliff though, got the same view but from lower down, and saw all the signage for the upcoming Tour de France which was to be ending in Nice this year (Paris being a little preoccupied with Olympics preparations). The sun was out by now, we took some photos and finally the sea was that shimmering azure.

I did get up early on the final day and walk over to that blue sea. The pink dome of the Negresco hotel looked lovely. I want to stay there some day. It’s very expensive, and I’ve stayed in some very nice hotels now but this one is classy. There are a lot of places along the Cote d’Azur I’d like to visit, or return to such as Villefranche sur Mer which I always loved, a short bus ride away. But Nice is far away from California, so who knows when next we will be back. It was easy to get to the airport on the tram, although the experience of waiting in the impossibly slow Ryanair check in line at Nice airport put us off flying through there for a while. I’m not done with my Riviera sketches though, as we did visit one other place on this short trip, somewhere that we as Formula 1 fans have wanted to got to for the longest time – Monaco!

the return to aix

July 24, 2024July 24, 20241 Comment

We took a few days away from London in the south of France. We went first to Aix-en-Provence, the very city where my wife and I met each other, 22 years ago. This was the first time we had been back there together in 21 years, and the first time our son ever went there. The last time I was in Aix was in 2015, I came here before my trip to Strasbourg, but it was great to finally come back here together, after all this time. The world is a different place now, though Aix hasn’t changed that much, give or take an Apple store and a lot less dog poo. It’s still a busy place, especially in summer, and we stayed in an apartment which overlooked the same street my wife used to live on when we first met, another flat up a steep narrow staircase. We ate dinner at our favourite old place, La Pizza, still there and still delicious, although the nearby Place d’Albertas has lost some of its charm, the little old fountain now looking clean and sterile. Aix still has a lot of character though. On our first morning I woke up early, as I always do when travelling, and went out to do some sketching. We were right by the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, and I had to sketch it, of course. It was here in Aix that I rediscovered my love of going out drawing, all those years ago before blogs and social media and Urban Sketchers. I remember doing a sketch of this on a trip back in the year after we left, 2003, and then again in 2015 on that last trip. An almost unchanging view. One day I’ll actually finish a sketch I do there! The town was setting up as I sketched, vans would occasionally park right in front of me, cops (‘les flics’) from the police station would greet each other with the little pecks on the cheek, restaurateurs would start slowly opening up their shades and putting out chairs. And then it was time for me to go and pick up pastries for the family, seemingly the one thing untouched by the beats of inflation, still the cheapest breakfast there is, and nothing tastes as good as freshly baked French pastry. When I lived in Aix, I lived above a bakery and the smell would waft up to my window.

The drawing from 2003, that was drawn in a Canson sketchbook I got from my favourite shop in Aix, Papeterie Michel. They always had the absolute best selection of art materials and sketchbooks, as well as everything I needed to make masks and costumes for the extremely silly play I directed. I am pleased to report, Michel is still there and even better than I remember. We all spent a long time in there, and I fought the urge to buy everything. I did buy new pens, many postcards, and a beautiful set of placemats. Elsewhere we bought a couple of new tablecloths, because we always loved the Provence tablecloths. Michel is on the Cours Mirabeau, the regal thoroughfare of Aix that separates the old town from the also old Quartier Mazarin. We walked around there, memories bouncing around those dusty old orange walls. The cinemas where we watched so many films; the first time I saw Lord of the Rings, Harry Potter, and of course where my wife took me to see Attack of the Clones on the opening night, playing only in French (VF) at the Cezanne because it wasn’t playing in English (VO) at the other place. People were dressed as Jedi and fighting with lightsabres (sabre-laser) in the aisles, we’d only been dating for a couple of months and she got me the tickets as a surprise. The music from that film still reminds me so much of those early days together in Aix. We walked down to the old Parc Jourdan, where we’d often hang out as it was halfway between centre-ville and the university where I worked as a ‘lecteur’. I didn’t walk down to the old Fac des Lettres building, I heard that it was knocked down and replaced with something more modern (and presumably, hopefully, a lot better). I also didn’t walk out to where my old flat was, our time was short in Aix, there were only so many memory lanes. I hoped to see some old men playing pétanque in the park but not today. So we walked back up to the Cours, mooched around Monoprix, and wrote postcards over cold drinks at a cafe. La vie can be pretty belle sometimes.

Our lunch was the thing I’d been wanting most of all, the fabled Poulet Frites, which I got from a very busy little kiosk called Le Regal which has been operating there since I lived there, although it’s across the street now and looks much changed. The poulet frites were still amazing though, fresh and hot, although my favourite ones back in the day were from a little place by where I lived. This one is by the Place de la Rotonde, which circles around a huge fountain, which I drew above. I did not quite finish the sketch, but didn’t need to. It actually started raining while I was sketching; it had been doing so on and off, very lightly, for a little while once the morning sunshine had, er, dried up. This rain though was not like normal rain, as you can see from the little orange splotches on the page, made by sand carried all the way from the Sahara. I remembered this would happen occasionally, either through warm sticky rain or just blown up on winds from the south (winds that were not as fierce as the fabled Mistral). It didn’t deter me for long. There were a lot of tourists in town, many being herded around by guides telling stories of the great figures of Aix, the capital of Provence and once ruled by a king called Roi Rene, whose statue stands at the end of the Cours Mirabeau. The entrance to the Cours is marked by two statues, one dedicated to the Arts and Sciences (which I sketched below), the other dedicated to literature or maths or something (if I didn’t draw it, I don’t remember it). Aix is a big university town, packed with scholars and students, a bit like Davis (but otherwise nothing like Davis whatsoever). Between 2001 and 2002 I taught English there, more a learning experience for me than any of the students in my classes. I wonder sometimes about all the people I met that year, though I’ve not been in contact with any for years (except of course my wife!). As I walked about the streets I remembered people I had not thought about in two decades, but that’s all part of life, the scenes and characters change and you’re in a new play. Now I’m a man pushing 50 who wanders about with a sketchbook trying to catch the places while I can.

The Cours Mirabeau has these odd little fountains on it, covered in thick green moss, that sit slap bang in the middle of the street. Aix has been called the City of a Thousand Fountains; I don’t know if there are exactly that many, it seems a bit specific, but there are a lot around here. Aix is built on a thermal spring – its name comes from the ‘Aquae Sextiae’, which means ‘sexy waters’ in Latin. Ok fine it doesn’t mean that, it means the waters of Sextius, who was a Roman consul back when they were beating up the local Gauls and founding the city in 123 BCE. This fountain comes right up from those hot springs, and is very old indeed, dating from 1667. It’s older than St. Paul’s Cathedral. It’s older than the USA. It’s older than (weak jokes about how old) Joe Biden (is). It’s called the Mossy Fountain (Fontaine Moussue) which I think you’ll agree is a good name. I drew it while my family were looking at clothes in Monoprix.

The most famous Aixois was definitely 100% without a shadow of a doubt the painter Paul Cézanne. Aix is wall to wall Cezanne obsessed. His studio was at the top of the town, uphill with a nice view of the big mountain, Mont St. Victoire, which I have climbed up twice, I never fail to tell people whenever we see one of his painting. “See that? Mont St. Victoire, I went up there, yeah easy, no sweat. Had to run down to catch the bus before it got dark though.” I make it sound like I rock-climbed up the face like that Free Solo guy, as opposed to just walk up the path along the less steep side, and peered over the edge. Cézanne loved that mountain though, he couldn’t get enough of it, drawing and painting it over and over again. I can’t relate to that at all, eh (Bike Barn, Varsity Theatre, Silo, these are all my Mont St. Victoires). Other famous people lived in Aix over the years, while I was there everyone kept going on about John Malkovich, “oh I saw John Malkovich at the market the other day”, “oh I sat next to John Malkovich at the cafe the other day”, “Oh I stood behind John Malkovich in the line for the toilet at the Red Clover the other day”, like let it go, Malkovich fans. I didn’t even know what he looked like, so I wouldn’t have known him from Paul Cézanne, but everyone had a Malkovich story. I was more impressed that the legend Nina Simone lived in Aix when we did, though she died in 2003. There should be a statue of her there. This statue of Cézanne though is nice, standing by the Rotonde outside where the old casino used to be, now knocked down and turned into a fancy shopping district. He’s there with his bushy beard and walking stick, and backpack full of art materials, so I had to draw him (though I did have to check I wasn’t unexpectedly drawing a statue of Malkovich). As a few more drops of sandy rain plopped on my page, I moved along. I have some more Aix sketches to show, even rainier ones, but that will be in the next post.

un p’tit peu plus de Paris

January 21, 2023January 18, 20231 Comment

Here’s the final batch of Paris sketches from last July’s visit. We really covered a lot of ground, but there’s a lot left to explore in future years. The thing about travel, I want to go everywhere. Well, maybe not everywhere, I don’t really fancy places like Swindon, or Fallujah, or Minsk. I’m sure they have their charms, but they are a bit further down the wish list. I feel like you could explore Paris forever with a sketchbook. The above panorama was another morning walk across the Seine, pre-breakfast, I had a bit of time. I did most of the linework there and then, but had to add in that truck and a lot of the windows later, as well as colour it in. My tummy was rumbling, you know. This is the Pont au Change, looking across to the Île de la Cité and the impressive Palais de Justice and Conciergerie. This is the heart of historic Paris right here. Right next to where I sketched was a stone marker that said on the 19th August 1944, Jem Harrix, ‘Gardien de la Paix’, died for the liberation of Paris. Harrix was a fighter in the Resistance, although I couldn’t find out much more than that. I walked off to get the usual selection of morning pastries, and got ready for our day of sightseeing.

There was one day where we visited the Musée D’Orsay. My wife had been telling me about the Musée D’Orsay for years, she loved that place when she first visited it back in the late 90s. It really is one of the most impressive art museums in the world. Built into the building of a train station, which features giant clock faces that you can look out of to heart-stopping views across Paris. I loved seeing all the paintings by your Renoirs and your Monets, and enjoyed all the sculptures by your Rodins and your Degas, but it was the architecture of the space itself that inspired me the most. I would love to go back; you can never spend too much time in a museum though, because museum fatigue is a real thing.

While taking a sitting down break, I sketched some of the sculptures quickly. It looked like a couple of them were almost doing a ‘Brucie’, that is, the Bruce Forsyth pose. More on the Brucie in another post perhaps, but it’s become one of those traditions now that when I go somewhere, I get a picture of me doing a ‘Brucie’. I got quite a few Brucies on this trip. I even got a Brucie at the Louvre in front of one of those massive paintings by David, though it was too crowded for a Brucie in front of the Mona Lisa. I got a Brucie at the Eiffel Tower, a Brucie at the Mont St Michel, a Brucie by the Seine, a Brucie in front of Van Gogh. You can only do one at each place, you don’t get nothing for a pair, not in this game. Anyway, I thought Rodin’s ‘Penseur’ had a touch of the Forsyth about him. This sculpture is from 1881! That’s a year older than Tottenham Hotspur. Rodin probably won more trophies too, yeah yeah.

After leaving the museum we went down to the seine and grabbed some lunch by the river, some Breton food. We didn’t stay too long in our seat though, as were were harassed by loads of wasps. Big horrible wasps too that wouldn’t take buzz-off for an answer, and made me spill my drink. I was going to ask to see the wasps’ manager and complain about their behaviour, but it turns out wasps don’t care about your stupid lunchtime and just want to get all over everything you are trying to eat and threaten you with their stingers. They know you’ll give up, and they were right. So we gave up, and walked through the city towards the Eiffel Tower. I’m not sure why we didn’t get the bus, but we thought the walk would do us good. it was a nice walk, but our feet didn’t half need a rest by the time we reached the Champ de Mars. We took a good long rest there and enjoyed the view and the pleasant wasp-free weather, and sketched the scene below. We walked closer to the Tower, recreated a photo we took of our son ten years before, and crossed the Seine to walk up the Trocadero (where I managed to sneak in a quick Brucie). We didn’t go up the Tower this time. I’ve been to the top before. What is interesting is that nowadays it is not possible to just walk beneath the Eiffel Tower, you are rerouted around it, which is disappointing. I do love the Eiffel Tower though, as far as iconic buildings go, this is up there in the top three.

We visited the Louvre too, but not on the same day as the Musee d’Orsay. My wife was surprised when I told her that I’d never been to the Louvre, in fact I’d never really been to any of the big Museums in Paris. In fact, none of the small ones either. I’ve not been to Paris that many times, and I usually wander about enjoying the streets. The Louvre was absolutely massive though. It’s big from the outside, but inside it feels even more gigantic. We did see the Mona Lisa of course, in that jam-packed little space (no Brucie; no room). I get it, it’s famous, but it’s not all that. You just have to say that you saw it and be done with it. It didn’t exactly have any impact on me such as when I saw Guernica in Madrid. Still, you got to see the famous thing, and anything by Leonardo da Vinci is worth taking a look at.

After the Louvre, we rested those tired feet by going up to Montmartre and walking around that hilly neighbourhood, getting out at Abbesses Metro station and climbing a ridiculous spiral staircase that went on forever, I thought we’d end up on the Moon or somewhere. Despite being packed with people, I really like Montmartre and had a nice afternoon there in 2019 (see: https://petescully.com/2020/02/02/une-journee-breve-a-paris/). We took the Funicular up to Sacre Coeur, enjoyed the views, despaired at the stupid amount of those little padlocks on all the fences. Seriously everyone, stop doing that. Padlock peddlers walk around selling those little “love-locks” at silly prices. But honestly, are you going to come back in years to come with your spouse and look for your little padlock with your initials on them on that fence with thousands of others and go, yay, we were here before, wow. No, don’t be silly. There was that one bridge over the Seine, the Pont des Arts, where so many of these things had been placed by silly lovers, throwing their keys into the river like idiots, that the city actually tried to stop it, because there were so many that the bridge started suffer damage under the weight. So people, please give up the love-lock thing. Love is all you need, not a bloody padlock on a bridge or fence in some city miles away. Anyway. We went inside Sacre Coeur, I had never been in there before, and it’s really nice. From inside, we did notice that the building is distinctly, um, booby-shaped. We wlaked about the streets and squares, found a very cool shop called ‘Merde’ run by an artist selling his artwork along with lots of things that say ‘Merde’ on it; we got some stickers and stuff. I did a very quick outline sketch of the view of Le Consulat restaurant, but we were ready to go home, so I took a picture and did most of it later on. The Metro ride home was long and sleepy. We were flying back to America the next day, which was an eventful journey in itself. We loved our time in Paris, and I can’t wait to come back again.