Kolob Canyons

Kolob Canyon 032824

It turns out the next national park we would visit was actually Zion again, but a completely different (almost completely separate) part of the park called Kolob Canyons. We were on the long long drive from Bryce Canyon to Las Vegas, so this was a good place halfway to stop for a while (but that was a long journey across the desert, and an otherwise boring busy freeway). We stopped and went to an overlook where you can see the panoramic vista, with arches like huge wheels forming in the rich orange rock; I used that new Daniel Smith Aussie Red Gold to bring out the colour in this one, that paint is a bit strong (and a lot more golden yellow than the reddish brown that comes out of the tube, it’s a way stronger pigment than my other paints). We stopped in at the Visitor Center on the way in, where I got my souvenirs, but we didn’t have time to do any hiking, we were off to spend the night in Vegas.

Zion (part 2)

Zion Village view 032524 sm

After our day one post-hiking rest at the hotel, we walked down to Zion Village to have dinner at the pub-restaurant there. We had to wait a while for the table, which = more sketching time. I sat and looked at the huge ridge that acted like a giant wall to the geological theme park beyond it. Dinner was nice, I had a refreshing local beer, and we got a good night’s sleep. More hiking next day!

Zion Watchman

We slept in a bit more the next day, and when we got up to hike the park the lines for the shuttle bus were already so long that if we’d waited in line it would have been nigh on three hours before we got a ride, that’s what people were saying. Worth the wait? Maybe, but probably better just to start out earlier. Zion is ridiculously busy. Most people I’m guessing were headed out to the Narrows, looking at the number of waterproof outfits, but there are a lot of interesting hikes in Zion, ranging from “Easy”, “Moderate”, “Difficult”, “Strenuous”, and “Turn Back Now All Ye Who Dare Enter”. The last category I think is saved for the famous Angel’s Landing, which is on the Scout Lookout via the West Rim Trail, and you need a permit for that bit. This morning however we were not taking the shuttle bus, nor hiking up no strenuous and terrifying trail, but walking the easy peasy lemon squeezy Pa’rus Trail, which is a simple pave trail starting at the Visitor’s Center and following the Virgin River through some stunning scenery. The main hazard was from all the e-bikes whizzing by and rumbling over the bridges, but that was much less hazardous than a walk across the UC Davis campus when classes get out. The immense cliffs around us made us feel tiny. It was great to walk through, and we caught a shuttle back to the starting point again when we were about done, but I definitely wanted a bit more hiking, and to see things from higher up. So when my family had a wander around Springdale, I hiked the Watchman Trail (moderate).

Zion view from Watchman Trail

The Watchman is a tall mountain that stands sentinel near the start of the park, but this trail wasn’t taking me up there, rather going up a decent uphill trail that landed at a plateau with an amazing view of the Watchman. Who Watches the Watchmen? I tried not to talk to myself on the way up in Rorschach’s voice, it’s been a while since I read that book. I remembered all the exploration of this area I had done in the Horizon game. The few clouds in the otherwise blue sky were comforting, but not threatening to get me wet. It was a nice hike and when I got to the top I sketched the scene above with the tree in the foreground, trying to get the pink-hued colours and the fluffy sky, and then did a quick pencil sketch of the Watchman itself (also above, which I coloured in later). It was a long hike down, and at the end I spent a bit of time in the Visitor’s Center shop, always one of my favourite things about visiting the National Parks. I always get way too many little souvenirs, postcards, pins, stickers. We had to get a move on though, because we were off to Bryce Canyon that afternoon, and it was a long old way. See you Zion, that was a lovely place.

Zion National Park (part 1)

Zion - riverside trail 032526 sm

For Spring Break this year we took another trip to southern Utah, to visit some of the beautiful national parks down there. In 2021 we had been to Arches and Canyonlands, staying in Moab after a very long drive from northern California; this time we flew into Vegas and drove to Utah from there, across the desert, passing through a little triangle of Arizona. We were headed for Zion, one of the most famous national parks in America. We stayed in Springdale, a long narrow town that hugs the Virgin River, and our hotel was footsteps away from the park entrance. We are racking up the national parks now, over the past few years. Our room was nice, with a view of red-rocked mountains right from our bed. Zion is one of the most popular parks, and the crowds can get a bit heavy. There is a shuttle bus from the park entrance to get to most of the trailheads in the long canyon, and the lines for this can honestly last 2-3 hours if you get there at the busy time. We went down early, not too early but it was about 8:30am, and there weren’t many people there yet. We got on the first bus, although it’s fair to say the bus was still full, mostly with hikers wearing full waterproof overalls and carrying long thick sticks of wood. They would hiking The Narrows, a well known trail through a series of narrow slot canyons down which you must wade in the cold waters of the river. Usually that might be up to your ankles or your knees; at this time of year it’s more like up to your chest. We weren’t doing that this time, although seeing everyone getting ready for it, I was kind of feeling a little like actually I wouldn’t mind doing that. Then I had a vision of tripping on a rock and going under, and I kept thinking of that one “Charley Says” where the cat falls into the canal and it all gets very sinister. “Charley says, never go into the Narrows when it’s really deep ‘cos you might sick from Toxic Cyanobacteria Bloom.” You might have to be British and from a certain time period to understand Charley Says. Anyway, the Narrows can wait for another time. We got off the bus right at the end to stop #9, at what’s called the ‘Temple of Sinawava’. I drew this sketch above from right there where you pick up the bus. We walked along the Riverside Trail, which leads down to the Narrows, and it was through a deep and pretty gorge, a fairly easy hike.

Zion Upper Emerald Pool 032524 sm The whole thing reminded me of the big valley where you have to spend a lot of time hunting machines and fighting bandits in the brilliant game Horizon – Forbidden West. It turns out, that whole area (known in Horizon as ‘The Daunt’ is basically Zion in the far future, so as I explored the park for the first time ever, I felt like I knew it really well, it was all so familiar. We got the bus down to stop #6, The Grotto. We hiked up the Kayenta Trail up to the Emerald Pools; the Middle Emerald Pool wasn’t all that, but it was a steep climb up to the Upper Emerald Pool was worth it. It wasn’t really Emerald exactly, more brown, as I think every single person up there pointed out, like it was the most original comment in the world. Having started out quite chilly in the morning, it was turning into a pretty warm day, with blue skies and sweaty legs. I stopped at the top and sat by the pool, which had a waterfall coming into it from a sheer cliff face, and I sketched this large almost cubic rock that was wedged into the waters. I then made my way back down, and rejoined my family to look around the dramatic sweep of Lower Emerald Pool. I definitely recognized this from Horizon. We ate our packed lunch and I did a quick sketch of the rocks above it (see below).  Zion Emerald Pool Trail 032524 sm We eschewed the busier trail on the way down (“eschewed”? I don’t talk like that) and walked down a less populous route, peace and quiet, towards the bridge. Of course, the bridge was closed, and it was a good couple of miles before there was another crossing. I mean look, in the video game I could just hop across the water and not even get wet. Life isn’t a video game. In video games, you spend most of the day looking at a screen and pressing buttons, while in real life…more drink! (with cheers to Father Ted there) We walked a long way, being passed at one point by a big group of people on horseback being led by a real-life cowboy with spurs on his boots. I wish I had some spurs, I don’t know what I’d need them for though. I’d wear them on the bus to Wembley just to get a cheap Instagram laugh. We did rest after while, and I did another sketch, see below. I drew this with the brown fountain pen, which was really nice for drawing Zion. I also stamped it later that day at the Visitor’s Center, which for some reason had the wrong date on it. We walked further until we crossed a meadow of long grass and tree branches, and saw a big deer hiding. After going through all the deer puns I could think of, which was surprisingly not many, we managed to find a bridge to cross and caught the bus back to the hotel, where we got straight into bed for an afternoon lie-down. Within minutes of hitting the pillow and daydreaming about maybe hiking the Narrows the next day, a massive rainstorm came into the valley and washed all those silly ideas away. It was nice to be inside and in bed, I can tell you.

Zion afternoon view 032524 sm

More to come!