and now i’m mrak, from outer space

mrak hall

We moved apartments this week, hence lack of activity in the pete sketchbook front; however I had to get lunchtime sketching at some point, and yesterday took my little stool down to an old chestnut of a sketching spot, the view of mrak hall from putah creek (drew it last year too). The creek is actually made of green pea soup; it’s always St.Patrick’s Day in the arboretum. You may notice that the two very small hills formerly in this view with the eggheads on top have now vanished, to be replaced with mud and construction, the groundwork for the extension to the law school, because apparently what this country needs is more lawyers. This means this view will not last much longer.

The weather is cooling off here, at last – yesterday I wore a jumper for the first time in absolutely ages (that’s a sweater to you). And a couple of days ago I even got – if it can be believed – several spots of rain on me!! That’s literally all there were. From the cloud that had obviously gotten lost. It’s the first rain since about February I think. Or since the 1890s, or I don’t know, it feels like such a long time. Most of my son’s life. His Irish genes must be confused (though he was born in a torrential central valley rainstorm). Still, he has his own room now so is as happy as larry. Anyway, those seven or eight spots of rain were probably just a teaser trailer for the winter. “Winter”. That’s a misnomer. California’s winters are like our British summers.

Here are some more views of Mrak.

100 degrees in davismrak, seen from the creeksee no evil back in mrak

“spare the air”? what air?

smoggy davis

smoggy davis

The first summer I spent in Davis was like no other I had ever experienced. Growing up in England meant bright sunny June days with cut grass in the park, orange ice lollies and bumblebees, followed by grey rainy June days with damp mud in the park, heinz tomato soup and wasps. It did not ever mean endless desert like weather coupled with the feeling that it may never be cool ever again anywhere in the world. That is what summer in the Central Valley is like, and that’s what it’s like now – only much worse.

We haven’t had rain here since, I don’t know, early February. Now I know I’ll have little sympathy from you rain-sodden English folk, but it’s pretty serious – it’s dryer than ever, which means a perfect recipe for fire – and boy are we on fire. There have been over a thousand fires raging across the state for the past couple of weeks now, most caused by dry lightning strikes, and since then the huge baking Central Valley has been blanketed with thick, nasty hazy smoke, that is going nowhere fast. You can feel it in your lungs, you can see it everywhere, the sunlight has a dull orange tint to it, the sunsets are spectacularly frightening. And now the temperatures are reaching those nasty July heights again, hitting 110 degrees Fahrenheit today (that’s about a million degrees Centigrade, or it feels like it anyway). It’s really quite unfriendly outside.

And pretty unhealthy, which is why we’ve been having Spare the Air days here. On those days, people are encouraged not to use their cars and add to the pollution, but use public transport or simply stay at home. Buses are free, though it means waiting in the thick smoggy heat for one to come. When will it end, I wonder? Well, it won’t rain until, I don’t know, November, and we currently have a drought which means water is scarce for fighting wildfires (though it doesn’t seem to affect those three-times-a-day lawn sprinklers in our apartment complex, the ones that spray even when it does rain), and the state budget is already shot to pieces. Thank goodness for air-conditioning; though if the rolling black-outs start up again, we might not even have that. California, here we come.

*

Ok, time for the now-expected pun-based gag. Britain have something similar to Spare the Air days: they’re called Spare the Heir, and on those days tabloids and glossy mags are encouraged not to write anything about Prince William. Especially not Heat.

Poor, I know. But it’s 110 degrees, so I have an excuse.

(By the way, this is my 50th post on this new blog!)

move over david

Considerez ceci:

Never mind Beckham. Something else has finally arrived, albeit slightly different. Pepsi Max, as anyone who knows me knows it’s my favourite drink, is here in the US, known however as ‘Diet Pepsi Max’, with all the same shit as in the original, zero sugar, plus the addition of ginseng, meaning I can also wash my hair in it. Pepsi Max! Here in America!

Never mind Beckham. They (the mysterious ‘they’, who make things happen) have remade the Bionic Woman as a new series, and starring as the bionic lass herself is…Zoe Slater! Off Eastenders! There we are, watching the TV, and a preview comes on, and there she is. She’s supposed to be ‘involved in a near-fatal car accident’ before being rebuilt as an android…I really hope this accident takes place new year’s eve, outside the Vic, just for old times sake. I wonder if Dennis Rickman will show up as the six-million dollar man.

Never mind Beckham. Tomorrow is Harry Potter Day, and downtown Davis is having a big feast of activities in the run-up to midnight, when the books will be released. I saw the latest movie, Order of the Phoenix, twice already – the first time, I really enjoyed it, but I couldn’t help but notice all the things that were missing or different. The second time, I enjoyed it a lot more, because I was watching it as a film.

Never mind Beckham. I bought the new Art Brut album recently, “It’s a Bit Complicated”. I’ve followed them for years now, and I was worried that a second album would not, could not, live up to the punch of the first. This second album, however, doesn’t even. I can see what they’re doing, and musically they’re more accomplished (not always a good thing), but the themes are a bit tired, a little samey, there is none of the rough-and-readiness of Bang Bang Rock’nRoll. Whereas their first album seemed effortless, on this one they just didn’t make an effort. I’m still a fan.

And finally, never mind Beckham, here in Davis, in the middle of July, it RAINED! I remember this time last year, sweltering in the ridiculous central valley heat, thinking it would never be cool ever again. It was about 115 F…this week it was in the low 80s, and it even rained. I read in the paper that the last time we saw rain up here on July 18th was in the days of the Gold Rush. I didn’t live here then. And nor did Beckham.

Originally posted at 20six.co.uk/petescully

Year 2: Weeks 67-68: California Cold Rush

Huge destructive storms, big bruvver racism, what’s going on back in the uk? Over here we’re still in deep freeze – there’s no snow, not even a cloud, in California’s central valley, but there is frost on the fruit, and the price of oranges and other citrus is going to rise dramatically as a result. Yes, yes I know that the storms in Europe are trashing coastlines and blowing trees all over the place, and yes I know that enormous ice storms across the rest of the US have brought states of emergency, but here in (still sunny) California we’re having record low temperatures overnight. It’s still nice in the daytime, but first thing in the morning it’s a bit nippy, brrrr. And blimey, I don’t know how I’ll cope with having to pay a bit more for my tangerines.

Seriously though, it’s even made the BBC world service news, the citrus crop could be utterly destroyed, as well as other crops – avocadoes, for example – and this has a knock-on effect on the state’s economy. California is one of the most important agricultural bread-baskets of the US, and we just aint used to this sort of weather. Even in southern California they have been getting flurries of snow in the hills above Malibu. They’re making snowmen in LA. But it’s been so dry in most of California that there is the additional risk of wildfire, especially with the high cold winds.

So, since I’ve come here, we’ve had the heaviest rain on record, the hottest summer on record, and now the coldest winter on record. Bloody hell. And this sort of thing is going on all over the planet. I heard that in Russia they are having one of the warmest winters they’ve ever had. Last year at the same time was one of the coldest. Tornadoes in Kensal Rise. Yesterday Stephen Hawking said that the threat of global warming and its knock-on effects has brought humanity that little bit closer to doomsday. I think it’s about time we took this climate change thing a little bit more seriously, or I might have to give up eating oranges altogether.

Week Thirty-Three: If You Can’t Take the Heat

Yesterday, someone said something that gave me the impression that they thought it was still Spring. I told them, look, if it’s nearly a hundred degrees Fahrenheit outside, that means it is Summer. I was assured that this is indeed still Spring, and that I will be looking back on the days when it was only in the 90s like some bygone cold spell. In Davis – in the Central Valley generally – it gets hot, and I mean HOT.

Not that I can go outside, of course. The hay fever is especially bad right now, and I’m tired of everyone asking me what I’m taking for it. Nothing works for me, and anything medicated makes me ridiculously drowsy. I’ve realised that the best thing for me is to just stay inside, in the safe insulated bubble of my office. I don’t have a window, so I don’t see how sunny it is, but my spies tell me it’s glorious right now.

I read somewhere that California got it’s name from the Spanish words ‘cali’, meaning ‘hot’, and ‘fornia’, meaning ‘oven’. Hot Oven. I don’t know about that folk etymology, but it’s a pretty good description. The hottest place in the world is in California, down in Death Valley. It is, of course, a ‘dry heat’, which means that you won’t sweat to death in desperate humidity as you might in the South. It also means that air-conditioning is essential, or plenty of fans at least. In our apartment, for example, we have more fans than Milton Keynes Dons.

And so all that was recently green is already golden brown, and the flooded plains that stretch from Davis to Sacramento have already all but dried up. The snowmelt from the Sierras is causing some Foothills rivers to rage violently, with frequent warnings about going anywhere near the icy cold torrents. Over on the East Coast, however, they are having some terrible rainstorms. By all accounts we in Davis have had our rain now, that’s it, that’s all we get until the winter. Not for Pete though – I’ll be back in London in just under a fortnight. Better bring me brolly.

Week Thirteen: A Hard Rain’s Gonna Fall

My wife gave me a bike for Christmas, and I cannot wait to use it. Davis, being a college town (and flat as a pancake) is a bicycle haven, being the most two-wheel friendly city in the US. The bike lanes are bigger than the car lanes and run all over the place. I think I will have to wait until a little while for the maiden voyage though, because right now it is raining hard, and according to the news there is plenty more to come.

I swear to you, the news here in California is obsessed with the weather. The nightly headlines always open with the weather, promising downpours and showers, and warnings like “if you go outside, please bring an umbrella.” The local Sacramento station has a snazzy machine, the ‘Doppler Three’, a kind of radar which detects the stormclouds rolling in from the Pacific. Colourful images wash across the screen, commentated by excited forecasters on the verge of seizure. It is their favourite toy, and they play with it as much as possible.

A few weeks ago, the temperature actually dropped below freezing for about an hour or so. It happened overnight, but we had plenty of warning, telling us to “cover over plants” and “keeps pets indoors”. Meanwhile, in other parts of the US, ice-storms are ravaging communities and severe blizzards are blocking up roads and bringing down power-lines. Here in California though, it’s a little bit nippy – ooh, better watch out, better wear them gloves! The rest of the country must think Californians, so unused to adverse weather, are such babies.

It is easy to make fun, of course, and forget that the heavy rain is a serious issue in flood-threatened Sacramento valley. A lot of people are out on the roads over the Holiday Season, and the wet freeways can be very, very dangerous. Already this year California has seen more road-deaths over Christmas than last year – twenty-seven in all. But what gets me about the news service’s over-emphasis on the weather is that it provides a nice distraction from the real news. Shootings are reported every night in Sacramento; it’s like shotgun alley down there, but it almost always comes second to the weather. The other night it was briefly mentioned that President Bush managed to extend the heinous Patriot Act, while Dick Cheney was announcing ‘essential’ budget cuts to medicare and student loans. But it was all glossed over very quickly, because we had to get back to our report from Doppler Three, “Hey, where’s that rain?!”

Coming from the UK, I know about precipitation. It’s even in the national anthem (“Long To Rain Over Us…”). Part of me is even jealous of that Doppler machine – I bet Michael Fish wishes he had one of those back in ’87. But when there is real news going on in America, with its President conducting illegal wiretaps and members of his administration facing indictment after indictment, and when the weather in other states is beyond California’s wildest nightmares, I think it might be a good idea to step away from the Doppler. Now if you don’t mind, I’d like to go and try out my bike. Luckily, my wife bought me a rain jacket too.

Week Six: Show Me The Levees

Yesterday was California’s ‘Special Election Day’. Voters went to the polls not to elect a new President or oust an old Governor, but to vote on eight ‘Propositions’, changes to the state law. Popular referenda are more commonplace here than in the UK, but the advertising campaigns that accompany them are vitriolic to say the least, usually sponsored by special interest groups such as ‘parents against Prop 73’, with slogans like ‘another bad idea from the Governor’. As it turns out, the public turned down all eight measures, leaving Arnie in a bit of a sticky situation. But the problem that is really worrying Sacramento right now is not the seismic events at the ballot box, but the threat of a catastrophic flood caused by unrepaired levees in the wake of the ineviteble Big Earthquake.

We have all, after New Orleans, heard about levees. We all know what happens if governments ignore their state of disrepair. Last weekend we moved to Davis, in the greater Sacramento area. Reading the Sunday newspapers, I have discovered that not only is the Sacramento Delta considered one of the most likely places in the US to suffer a massive flood, but that governments do not want to face the problem, the ‘big, dark secret that no one wants to talk about’ (as a UC Davis geologist has put it). The levees protecting the Delta dams need updating, and fast.

Everybody knows that California has long been expecting the ‘Big One’. It suffers tiny quakes every single day, but the state is splitting apart, geologically speaking. The Central Valley will eventually become a huge Bay (probably forcing the prices of houses up rather than down). If a large earthquake strikes – it could strike tomorrow, for all we know – it is likely that the levees will fail and FEMA will once more be pulling people from rooftops. And it may not even need to be a quake that triggers it – the Sacramento Bee is equally concerned with the threat of a ‘Pineapple Express’ storm, presumably from the south. But worse than that, such a catastrophe would destroy the water supply for two-thirds of California’s population for anything up to a year. We’d need more than Arnie to get us out of that.

So when we moved into our flat (sorry, ‘apartment’), I made sure that we were placed on the second floor. When that Big Quake comes, and the floodwaters invade, the roof will be ours! I’ve already started making my sign; it reads, ‘Food, Water and Football Results Urgently Needed!’

 

Originally posted 11/10/2005