Toulouse Part 2: around Capitole

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I should really call this ‘Part 3’ since I already had one Toulouse post before ‘Part 1’, which was when I posted the sketches of the World Cup semi-finals, the first of which took place on the first day I was there, July 14.Call that one a Bonus Track. This is basically the rest of the sketches from July 14 that I didn’t put in Part 1, probably because I was in a hurry. After cooling off at the hotel I headed out into Place du Capitole, and walked over to the nearby Place Charles de Gaulle where I had seen some random sketchers dotted about, and figured I would also draw this big building which is located at the rear of the Capitole. I believe it’s called the Donjon and dates back to 1525-30 (the top was added later). I had to find a good spot in the shade where I could sketch it, and settled on standing on some grass behind a bench. This was the first page of a new sketchbook, another Hahnemuhle A5 portrait size book, which is Sketchbook #63 in the official chronology but was not my main book, I used the landscape one most (Sketchbook #62). By the way those numbered sketchbooks are just my ‘main’ ones in order, and doesn’t include ones such as the small brown book I usually carry, or other ‘side-project’ sketchbooks. I didn’t actually sketch the main Capitole building itself, despite having a hotel right across from it, because it was a very big building full of windows and decorations, and I figured other people would draw that, I’ll draw something else. Looked like it would just take too long, and at the end of it I’d be like, ok well I drew that. I quite enjoyed drawing this, but it was getting into eraly evening already and I wanted to eat something before the big semi-final, so I hurried it along. I did draw some of the lads sat opposite me though, because I really liked the football shirts. The one on the left is a Sporting Lisbon shirt (probably a training shirt), but the one in the middle was a fantastic Mali shirt, and I had already drawn one Mali shirt just a few weeks before in Davis. This was a square where lots of people were hanging out, shaded from that sun, there was a childrens play area, trees and grass, and fountains coming out of the ground that had signs saying ‘don’t play in the fountains’ but on a crazy hot day like this, everyone’s playing in the fountains, as they should. Some older men were gathered on the bench next to me, having an evening drink, I liked listening in. I spoke to some other sketchers, who were Spanish, and wished them luck in the game that night.

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I did another quick sketch in the Place du Capitole, of one of the street corners in the evening light. Toulouse is the pink city, la ville en rose, but I was feeling more purple and just wanted to catch how the shadows were drawing you in. I like a quick sketch like this, it’s more of a snapshot, a mood. I couldn’t fill all my time with sketches like this because I do like making a nice detailed drawing (and I draw those pretty fast too), but if I did, in all different colours, that would be quite a fun book to look through. I saw so many styles and colour schemes in peoples’ sketchbooks on this trip that it did give me a new bag of ideas to use in my sketches going forward. I keep thinking I should take a weekend in San Francisco and just draw like this, get as many quick sketches in as possible, playing with colours, see what the end result would be. I don’t know, right now in August 2026 I have been drawing loads of trees, portrait format, full colours, lots of detail, and that is, as they say, my jam. Though I did draw a series of sketches in different colours of the Davis Farmers Market earlier this month, which by this rate I might post on here some time in the new year.

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I had Japanese noodles for dinner, an interesting first meal in Toulouse, and then met with fellow sketcher Kalina (who I knew from the Portland Symposium all those years ago) to watch the World Cup in a reasonably crowded Irish pub near Place du Capitole (O’Brien’s, right across from my hotel). France lost the semi-final, as I reported in an earlier post. Spain went on to win the World Cup, but that’s another story. Kalina showed me her sketches from that day, and she had been to a place called ‘Halle de La Machine’ which looked incredible, she sketched this gigantic wooden Minotaur which moved about and she and a load of others had ridden on a platform on its back – it looked amazing, and I decided I’d make the time to go there the next day. While I did sketch the people watching the match (see that earlier post) we also sketch a group of younger people, one of whom was dressed as a pirate, and we had drawn so many pirates in years gone by. We ended up chatting away with them for a while, and it was nice to meet some Toulouse locals on the first night there. Still, it had been a very very long day, and I needed a good night’s sleep for the actual start of the Symposium next day.

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Toulouse, Part 1: sketching the Garonne

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Alors! Instead of continuing to play catch up and post things in order, before this summer slips away I am going to post my sketches and stories from the 2026 International Urban Sketching Symposium in TOULOUSE, France. It’s now over a month since the Symposium ended and I am still brimming with sketching energy and missing all the interactions with urban sketchers from around the world, though I am not missing the sweaty, sticky heat. I did a lot of drawing, though I always come away thinking ‘but it wasn’t enough’, having seen so many other sketchbooks. I did a lot of urban exploring but again always feel I could have seen more (if the sketching didn’t slow me down). I met a lot of people and spent time with a lot of old sketching friends (and new ones too), but there’s never enough time to see everyone. I did spend almost a week in Toulouse though, and that was a good time to get to know a place and come away with good memories of somewhere a bit different, but being France, still familiar. Plus I got to speak a decent amount of French to the point where I have been actually trying to keep it up and want to improve it now I am back home again. So let’s get on with it. I landed in Toulouse on July 14th, the Fête Nationale (what we call ‘Bastille Day’ but they don’t really). This was the day that France were due to play Spain in the World Cup semi-finals and I expected people everywhere to be wearing their France shirts and buzzing with excitement since they had been, so far, the best team in the tournament. Except maybe Spain who just looked very solid. In fact people I spoke to were definitely not getting carried away with Les Bleus’ chances, knowing Spain were actually a bit good. Still I was looking forward to some celebrations and fireworks that evening. As it turned out, they held the firework display over the river the night before, and France ended up losing the semi-final. Still, I had a very nice first day in Toulouse, and got right to work with the sketches. The bus from the airport was easy, my hotel was in an amazing central location right by the Place du Capitole, and I walked right down to the Garonne river that afternoon after checking in. It was very hot, and I had taken the long way. I stood in some shade on the high embankments, and looked out over to the Chapelle St. Joseph de la Grave. The Garonne was a fresh greeny-blue matching the dome, and the buildings were reddish-ochre, but you can see why they call Toulouse ‘La Ville Rose’, the Pink City, because in the light everything feels tinged with a bit of pink. The stone on a lot of the buildings does have a pinkish hue, especially in the evening, being made with what they call ‘brique rose’ (pink brick). The bridge to the right is the Pont St. Pierre. This was still early- to mid-afternoon and the sunlight was very strong, and I had to drink a lot of water. It was relaxing to draw by the river though. Three Moroccan lads sat near me and were chatting on their phones, one was admiring the sketch. I had already seen quite a few urban sketchers about town, their familiar sketching poses making me feel right at home, but had not seen anyone else I knew yet. The river turned out to be a place we would come back to sketch a number of times during the Symposium, but I got the big view out of the way first.

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I walked further down the high embankment (the Quai Lucien Lombard), shaded with rows of plane trees, and found a spot on the corner to draw the historic Pont Neuf. France likes to call its oldest bridges ‘Pont Neuf’ (back when they made their bridges with irony rather than iron), and this beauty was constructed between 1544 and 1632 (it took a while; the Garonne was not an easy river to tame) and completed by the famed architect Jacques Lemercier during the reign of King Louis XIII. I adored those arches, even though I don’t like drawing arches (add to the list of things I don’t like drawing: circles, feet, hands, dogs, Arsenal shirts). As I sketched I bumped into the first sketchers I knew and they were old urban sketching friends, Liz Steel and Suhita Shirodkar, which was a very nice surprise. There were going to be many hundreds of sketchers all over Toulouse the next few days, so it was nice to bump into people I have known since this Urban Sketchers thing all started. I drew quickly and did what I could with the river, it was the colour I wanted) and started to head back into centre-ville again. There were lots of things I wanted to sketch, but it was so hot so I kept it simple as I headed back towards the hotel, and I drew this really interesting post-box on the corner of Place de la Daurade.Then I went back to the hotel to cool off before heading out for some more sketching before dinner.

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I should include my in-flight sketch, Ryanair from Stansted to Toulouse. I always draw on the plane, like most urban sketchers, it’s how I relax and get my sketching exercises in. I had a small A6 size brown Hahnemuhle sketchbook with me, as well as the two A5 Hahhemuhles (one portrait, one landscape), as well as the tiny accordion Hahnemuhle. I should do a post on the materials I took to Toulouse, and those I got while there, but not just yet. The Sun is up now and I need to go for a morning run before work. Join me soon for part 2…

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Toulouse: two lose in the semi-finals

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The Longest World Cup Ever is over, at last, and I am done with football for a while. FIFA and its All-Powerful Leader, He-Who-Must-Be-Shown-Onscreen-In-The-13th-Minute-Of-Every-Game, have been very quiet since it ended, nothing controversial happening, very low profile. Maybe this will be the last ever World Cup. It’s just the shirts I like anyway these days. The game itself, well good games are few and far between. Certainly the World Cup Final was one of the most boring games I have ever pretended to enjoy. I am glad Spain won that final, Argentina were about as anti-football a team in that game since the Argentina of the 1990 final, unsporting thugs. I didn’t sketch the Final, as it came at the end of a very very busy Urban Sketching Symposium in Toulouse, and anyway who would sketch that game, better to just paint my page and watch it dry. The Third Place Game between England and France was unmissable but I missed most of it, because those games are usually missable, and besides I was busy. I did however watch and sketch what I could of the Semi-Finals. I will post the Symposium story and my Toulouse and London sketches soon (and then get back to catching up from 2025, by which time it will be 2028 and time for the Euros). For now tough it seems a good moment to close out my World Cup documentation. I arrived in Toulouse on July 14, which we call Bastille Day but the French call the Fête Nationale. They held the fireworks the night before on the July 13, and this night was all about the football. I watched it in a bar right across the street from my hotel, O’Brien’s, with fellow sketche Kalina. It was full of locals dressed in the colours of Les Bleus (ie, blue), some draped in French flags, lots of bières blondes (it was happy hour, buy one get one free), and a lot of nervous anticipation. I was probably expecting more noise and atmosphere, as France had been the most exciting team in the tournament and I fully expected them to win the whole thing with goals and panache, but people were not getting carried away. Not like in 2002, when they were on top of the world and the atmosphere in France was triumphal to say the least (I was living in Aix that year), until they completely flopped in the group stage. It was a bit more like 1998, I was there for the semi-final then as well, watching it at my friend Roland’s apartment, and people did not want to get too carried away, until the final whistle blew and wow, they were actually in the Final, and would play Brazil, in Paris, and boy did they celebrate that night. Well this night felt a bit more like that, but with the opposite outcome. Even at the start, when the national anthem La Marseillaise played on the TV, it was fairly subdued, save a few people singing the rousing part “aux armes, nos citoyens!”. I had been expecting that scene in Casablanca, or even Escape to Victory, but it was more like the opening to All You Need Is Love. It was a quiet game too, France could not lay a glove on Spain, who were a defensive masterclass without being boring. I had to add in a few yells at the screen on my page, but even they didn’t really happen (nobody says “Zut Alors!” in France, except maybe in the Tricolore textbooks). It became clear that France were not getting back into this game, so there was very little edge-of-your-seat tension, and people seemed a bit relieved it was over by the end. At least France have won two World Cups in our lifetimes (or one, based on the ages of many in the bar), so it’s not like with England and their famous ‘Years-Of-Hurt-Ometer’ which has now been reset to ‘At Least 64’). After the game, many left but the bar did not empty and we stayed and sketched and had fun conversations with some locals, and it was nice.

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I did watch the second semi-final, of course, as it was England vs Argentina, and yeah, I am disappointed with the result. I missed half of the first half because I was at the Symposium Opening Reception, but ducked out early to a pub called The George and Dragon, which is about as sure a place to watch an England game as you can get in Toulouse. About half the people in there, maybe less, were in England shirts, the rest were either not really watching, or were French but cheering for Argentina, mostly because Messi, or maybe because they wanted to play England in the 3rd Place game, if they cared about that game. Mostly they wee not that bothered. England were winning for quite a while, and then they weren’t, and then it was extra time, and shortly before the end they weren’t winning even more, and I went back to my hotel to get some pre-Symposium sleep. Football is rubbish anyway, it’s only the shirts that I like. The Premier League will be starting again soon, how excited am I, ooh I can’t contain myself.

BYT I drew these on the reverse side of the accordion sketchbook that I drew the USA-Belgium game on, in the previous post. I got that sketchbook in Poznan in the Sympsoium goody-bag, and I don;t really like the bumpy watercolour paper much.

Anyway, I was in France and London recently and I have so many sketches to post. And then after that, catch up with 2025 and the first half of 2026. I can’t stop sketching.