Maui No Ka Oi. That mean’s ‘Maui is the Best’, and it is a beautiful place. Looking out at the Pacific Ocean from where we were staying in Wailea, towards the island of Lanai, the barren land of Kaho’olawe, the small volcanic shell of Molokini, over to West Maui which looks like it might be another island but is joined to Maui by a large fertile valley, and beyond to Moloka’i, none of it seems real. We sat and watched one sunset on New Year’s Day, and the range of colours in the domed sky around us made it feel like we were in a giant IMAX dome. Paradise on Earth. Though looking out at West Maui, which I drew above in afternoon light for my final sketch of 2024, it was hard not to think of all those who suffered in those terrible fires back in the summer, especially in the devastated historic capital of Lahaina, just on the other side of that mountain. Even though we’ve seen so much fire in California in recent years, it is hard to imagine when looking at a view like this, but hard not to think about. IT was a poignant New Years Even for Maui, though still celebrated with the fireworks out at see, as it was the last time we were here. We sat on the bluff this time overlooking the beach, watching the fireworks and worrying if it would scare the sea turtles, and I played my ukulele as 2023 sodded off and 2024 waltzed in. We were one of the last in the world to leave 2023 behind, better late than never.
I did most of my sketching in the morning before everyone was up, and in the afternoon when it was nap time, and mostly just went out to sketch the view of the Ocean. I drew in my Moleskine, and also in my little Fabriano Venezia which is lovely for little watercolour sketches, and nice drawing in portrait format for a change. The sketch above was shortly after sunrise. On the morning before, we had gone out in the outrigger canoe to explore the ocean, getting an interesting little tour by our local guides (who were actually from South Africa and Argentina), pointing out all sorts of history and story that we didn’t know about. We didn’t see any whales while we were out there, but there were plenty around, being whale season in Maui. We saw some from a long way off while we were on the beach. We didn’t (thankfully) see any sharks. We did encounter a sea turtle right up close though, swimming alongside our canoe. It was a pretty great experience, and I loved being out on the water.
I drew the sketch above after sunrise on the following day also. I wanted to focus a bit more using the paints and less of the pen. That little boat with the red triangular sail was out there every morning. This was New Year’s Eve, and later that morning I went snorkeling for the first time. I’d never done it before and was a little hesitant; I can float about well enough but am not the strongest swimmer, but my wife got me a good floaty vest so I could do my best with it. About a minute after getting under the water, a big sea turtle swam right up to me, and then passed by slowly, swimming alongside me for a little bit. It was a great experience, though I was nervous to see it at first. I grew up with tortoises, so this was special, but I kept my distance. The honu as they are called in Hawaiian is a protected marine animal. I didn’t see another, but I swam around a lot of very colourful fish in the rocks and corals. Oh dammit, I forgot to make a joke about singing ‘Christmas Corals’, I’ll do that next time.
Above is a quick sketch of Molokini, the little crescent-shaped volcanic crater – sorry, it’s a ‘caldera’ – which is super popular with snorkelers. It’s supposed to be spectacular, though it was used for target practice in World War II (Kaho’olawe itself was bombed to bits during the war and long afterwards as the US military used the island to test its weaponry, and remains unpopulated). It was quite hard to see Molokini, but I brought my binoculars with me.
The next couple of sketches from New Year’s Day were done close together as the sun was getting ready to set. I really wanted to catch the colours of the sunset going into the ocean, with the shining volcanic rocks in the foreground. I drew the one below before the one above, and you can see the change in the colour of the sky in the short space of time. It wasn’t as windy that day, but on one of the afternoons I sat out there by that tree with my ukulele playing hard into the wild Wailea winds as the ocean splashed nearby. It’s a good place to play the ukulele, so relaxing.
And below, my last sketch in Maui by the ocean, another morning looking out at West Maui, a palm tree, well-trimmed vacation resort grass, and a big rock that has a sign on it telling us it had been deposited there on the bluff from the ocean by a huge wave a few decades ago. Call my bluff indeed. I have a bunch of other Maui sketches I couldn’t help drawing from our trip ‘upcountry’, I will post those soon. It was a lovely trip to Maui. The cocktails were a bit expensive, but we got to enjoy them from an infinity pool looking out at the sea. The food was good, although I tried a local ‘Molokai potato and banana curry’ which I thought might be good but was actually gross, here’s your expensive check. The seafood was delicious though, and our dinner and Mai Tais at Monkeypod were incredible. It’s these views though, this is what you come here for. Maui No Ka Oi.
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