observing the olympic village

olympic village, london
We really wanted to see the Olympic Stadium in Stratford, East London, and here it is! As close as we are able to get to it anyway. The Olympic Village is not quite ready, and the public cannot access it, but you can get a great view from the new, massive shiny Westfield mall, opened as part of the Olympic regeneration project, and pretty much the only way into the Village from the station. Stratford is completely unrecognizable to me now. I used to come over here occasionally when I was at university in nearby Mile End to visit friends, and the idea of the Olympics, the actual Olympics, coming to Stratford back in those days was a laughable idea. Well it has happened! But of course they have had to remove a lot of Stratford to make it happen. From what I saw, I was impressed. Even the train from Camden Road, now part of the modernized ‘London Overground’ system, was a much improved pleasure. I got this quick sketch in from the viewing area inside the Olympics giftstore on the top floor of John Lewis; that tall red metal thing is a bit odd, its as if Wembley Stadium has had an argument with Magneto or something. It’s an imressive site, the Olympc village, though the stadium is not quite the eye-catcher that the Bird’s Nest was, and as for those other big expensive-looking modern buildings, I cannot recall what the signs said they were to be used for, clay-pigeon shooting or roller-skating or something. Still it’s exciting isn’t it! All the Londoners I spoke to seemed less than excited, sick of it already, too much money, blah blah blah. I can understand. The Olympics is a couple of weeks of sports you would never watch otherwise but it is such an honour you need to flatten decades old businesses to make it happen. I don’t like the corporate sponsor nonsense, how in the Olympics area you can’t use your Mastercard because Visa is the sponsor, I hate all that nonsense, making it more difficult for people. It will I believe ultimately be good for London – the city had its best face on, and I was impressed at the overall vibrancy in the city, being the Olympic and Jubilee year. I am happy for East London too. I for one was hugely proud of my city when it was selected (July 6, 2005), and then of course we had to deal with the terrible events on the day after. It may be a bit crazy when it’s on – security will be unbelievable, media rabble-rousing even more so, but despite the price-hikes it will be a great time to be in London, to show it off to the world.

I’ll be in Davis, watching it on the telly.

home again

mum's kitchenI just got back from two weeks in London, where the weather was changeable and there was Match of the Day, trifle and turkey rasher sandwiches to look forward to. And now the scanning and posting begins in earnest! I sketched a lot in London. There was a lot to sketch. But it was cold, very cold, sometimes wet, very wet, and the sun went down at about half-past three, so it was dark, very dark. I loved it. I do miss my home town sometimes.

However, by being across the pond we were missing Thanksgiving, so my American wife cooked my British family a lovely Thanksgiving meal of roast turkey, mashed potaoes, green beans with caramelized onions, gravy and amazing pumpkin pie to finish it off. Thanksgiving is my favourite of the American holidays, by far, so it was nice to share that with my family in Burnt Oak.mum's living room

I got up very early (jetlag) and sketched in the kitchen, pre-meal. I also drew a slice of the living room. I wasn’t involved with the cooking; my job that day was to entertain my son, so I took him out and we explored the town where I was born (well, the suburb), the park, the shops, the library. This is the house where I grew up, drawn quickly in purple micron pen.

It was nice being back home in the UK, though it was only for a short while. I enjoyed Match of the Day (Lineker and his banter with Hansen), I lapped up the trifle (especially my brother’s, he has a secret recipe), and I ate a lot of turkey rasher sandwiches. Bliss.

hitched in hitchin

congratulations james & lianne!

It’s Hallowe’en…this is supposed to be the most haunted building in Hertfordshire ( that’s England, folks, just north of the part of London I’m from). It’s the Sun Hotel in Hitchin, and today my friend James is marrying his fiancee Lianne at this very place (many congratulations dudes!); unfortunately I can’t go (what with being on the other side of the world) so I drew this for them.

Happy Hallowe’en!

Year 2, Week 66: A Rainy Night In Soho

I’m too much of a city person, I’m afraid. I finally went down into Central London, and darted around the narrow afternoon streets with my sketchbook and my memories, in and out of shops, picking up cds and dvds on sale like super mario or something. I even met up with my brother, who happened to be in town, and he drove me around in a similar fashion disguised as white-van-man with the missions of black-cab-man. Soon I met my oldest friend, with whom I spent many evenings as an early-twenty-thing in the Wardour Street area. He was off to Korea the next day for a new life, with his Japanese wife, neither of them had ever been to Korea before, so the adventure begins for them. Bit later, met up with my best man plus another anonymous creativist (not creationist), and then another, and then the drinks did overflow. I was drinking strongbow cider, because I’d had this dream a couple of weeks back, and there was someone who’d turned into a turkey and was attacked by giant crows outside the British Museum… I’m not explaining my dreams right now.

The evening ended up in the Intrepid Fox – but not the one I know. The one in Wardour Street, one of my favourite pubs about a decade or so ago, a rockers haunt (and I was a bit of a rocker, without the boring rocker clothes and hair) (or music, mostly) (basically I play the guitar, that’s good enough for me). I was saddened to see that this historic Soho mainstay had closed, boarded up and empty, possibly to become another loud corporate-style bar, where toilet attendants try to spray you with perfume while you piss (let’s just say the bogs at the Fox were not like that at all… ). However, it has actually moved, to a space on St.Giles High st, behind New Oxford Street, much closer to the guitar paradise of Denmark Street, and now it is open until 2am and you can actually move around there without spilling some huge biker’s snakebite. And I remember when that place used to be a trendy over-priced bar! The reverse has happened – it has become the rock-pub, though the nearby former Hellfire Club has long since disappeared. So this is London in my absence.

I woke up next morning, and Saddam Hussein had been hanged. I had a pretty big hangover myself. New Year’s Eve came and went, a couple of glasses of wine in Burnt Oak, while Big Ben struck and the London Eye erupted on the telly. I’m back in America now – we got back on New Year’s Day, tired and dreading work, and San Francisco was sunny when we landed. we drove on to the Valley, past the strip malls and big-box outlets and the flat brown land that stretched all the way to the now-snow-capped Sierras (an awesome distant sight). I really enjoyed being Home though. I feel like when Superman flies up above the clouds and reinvigorates himself in Earth’s yellow Sunlight (guess what I watched on the plane). But now it’s back to Davis, back to work, back to wide roads and cars-big-as-bars, and I have to think up some New Year’s Resolutions, which will have to start this weekend I’m afraid. Happy 2007, I hope it’s full of peace and love.

Year 2, Weeks 64-65: Back In The UK

It’s overwhelming, being Back.

We flew into a thick duvet of fog at Heathrow, leaving behind a foggy rainstorm in San Francisco; we didn’t know we were near the ground until the wheels suddenly bounced against the tarmac on the runway. Then the excitement of seeing the family, coupled with the terror of being in a small car laden with people, packages and presents on narrow north-west London streets; I had forgotten how much people here have little or no regard for their lives when crossing the road (and yet I grew up as one of these people). And then the getting up early and marching around Sainsburys marvelling at all the food I’ve missed since being in the US, and popping into WHSmiths and encountering a grumpy old woman (standing sour-facedly in the way of the sketchbooks I’d come 5000 miles to buy) who reminded me that the quick-snarling Brits are definitely not the friendly Americans. And after witnessing the final closure of an old bookshop where I used to work, going to Belgo for some it-didn’t-seem-this-expensive-before moules-frites, and on to Camden for many many drinks with many very excellent and very much-missed friends, followed by the obligatory journey across London in my sleep (courtesy of the N5; it’s almost like I do it on purpose). Yep, I’m Home, and while my head heart and soul feel like the musical build up in A Day In The Life, I’m not yearning for a return to the US just yet.

Christmas Day came and went, I didn’t eat or drink anywhere near as much as had been put in front of me. But there was trifle, there were mince pies, there was Pepsi Max; pete’s happy. The Eastenders Christmas death was Pauline Fowler, who was herself upstaged by the demise of legendary misogynistic groper James Brown (he doesn’t feel good now). Boxing Day began with me crawling out of bed at 5.30 am with a bad back, and enjoying the solace of the wee quiet hours, sketching the tree and listening to Pulp: the Peel Sessions. Later there was Doctor Who, Little Britain, ET, lots more food, lots more drink, lots more cheese and conversation. I’ve barely ventured out to see how much the UK has changed in my latest absence, whether the asbo generation and the massive influx of Poles that everybody keeps harping on about has really made much of a difference. Burnt Oak looks like the same old Burnt Oak to me, grey, run-down, a rusty tin-can being blown about in the breeze. I’ve not yet gone to see my old amour, the streets of central London, to be about the mad throngs I used to ignore like I’d ignore the drizzle. I’ve not yet had a curry, or a pint of London Pride. But I’ve been travelling with my mind through my life: I learnt to shave in this room, I wrote sad forgettable songs on this guitar in this very corner, I used to sit on this step and dream about living far far away.

Yeah, it’s nice being back in a past life. It’s where I’m from, what I know, and what’s more, it knows me – and there’s no bugger asking for my ID.

Week Thirty-Seven: Holiday in a Past Life

I left England yesterday afternoon, landing in the cool air of San Francisco in the early evening, back at last with my wife, who I have missed enormously. My nose was in agony after eleven hours of allergies that had been all but invisible in London. The god of jetlags was trying to strike me a deal – sleep as soon as you get in the car, sleep as soon as you reach home, and your body clock will not be disrupted. Sod that, I replied, with purple eyes; I want a Taco Bell, and to sit in front of the TV watching the replay of Brazil vs Croatia in Mexican Spanish with a cup of tea and my wife. Now, after a night of heavy sleep and dreams of the restoration of English magic (Strange and Norrel, not Eriksson and McLaren), I am up; it is five in the morning, and still dark. You don’t get that in an English June.

It was a strange sensation being back. I felt like Sam Beckett from Quantum Leap, returning to a past life to live out old routines, old thinking. I’ve only been eight months gone, but I could ring the changes; London felt angrier, especially in the suburbs. The high density of St George flags in the windows and walls of Burnt Oak pointed to a bubbling defiance at the way things are going; far from being the reclamation from right-wing associations that the media is congratulating itself on, a simple scratch of the surface revealed that a lot of people felt divided and threatened by the surrent situation regarding the large number of immigrants that have very recently and very rapidly changed the character of many suburban areas. Poor immigrants arriving in poor areas, eyed suspiciously by poor locals who hear daily tales of muggings and knifings and free housing and exploitation of the NHS; I felt a tension brewing that I know is being echoed across the country, and the proliferation of St George’s crosses still appeared to be a declaration of some sort, ands it had nothing to do with Rooney’s foot.

I didn’t travel into Central London anywhere near as much as I had expected. The Underground’s prices had rocketed for one thing, but mainly it was because of all the people. It is simply too busy, with people charging all over the place with busy faces and busy frowns. Bus drivers were rude and unhelpful, and buses themselves were completely unequipped for temperatures above twenty degrees Celsius. New paint and advanced window technology have been employed to solve the sweaty bus problem, but surely a simple air-conditioning unit would suffice? Where’s all this extra money going, Ken? (I note this was not as much of a problem on the old but airy Routemasters) I attempted Oxford Street only once; I am the master of Oxford Street, and can zone out the people as though I’m walking through the Matrix, weaving swiftly through the crowds without being held up by a single person or being run over by a single errant taxi. My mind forges a deep connection to the mystical energy known as the OxForce. But this time my brain was telling me – why bother? You don’t need to be in crowds, Pete, you don’t like crowds. So on every subsequent trip downtown I would slip casually into the system of back alleys and short-cuts that I’ve grown to know over the years.

It was great to see my family; I managed to spend a good deal of time with them, keeping them updated of my new Californian life. My nephews and nieces are getting so much taller. I didn’t see as many of my friends as I would normally have done, but spent some quality time with the ones that mattered. I rattled through areas I’ve known my whole life, even going down to Watling Park for a quiet read by the stream where I used to play every day of my childhood. There was even a mangled shopping trolley rotting in its shallow, greasy waters. The park was full of dodgy hooded youths – but was it not ever thus? I could always map out that park in my mind as a kid, knowing which bridges had the most gluesniffers, which benches had the most winos and smackheads, which places you were most likely to be pushed into a thorny bush for having ginger hair. I drew a couple of pictures and left to watch the World Cup.

And now i’m back in Davis, and in a couple of hours will have to go back to work. I dread to see what has piled up in my absence, but I come armed with Cadbury’s Heroes, the shadow of jetlag and the symptoms of World Cup fever (‘you give me fifa, fifa all through the night’). I’ll have to dust the cobwebs and black widows from my bike, and write home with photos and wishes; but for now, I have a big pile of panini stickers, a cup of tea and some hob-nobs, and I’m going to watch some early-morning footy. And then, when the sun is fully up, it is back to reality.

Week Thirty-Six: World Cup, Flags and Broken Feet

The hype is building here now for the 2006 Deutschland World Cup, and as I write Wayne Rooney’s foot is awaiting the results of its latest scan. Beers are being bought en masse from Tesco, armchairs being moved here and there to find the perfect position in front of the telly, and then there are the flags. I’ve never seen so many bloody flags.

They used to fly the Union Jack (more properly called the ‘Union Flag’; it’s only a ‘Jack’ when it’s on a ship). Now the navy blue has been thoroughly washed away, and only the red cross of St.George remains, and it is everywhere. Our house is probably the only one in the street which does not have at least one giant England flag hanging from the top windows, but some houses are completely decked out, I mean roof to roses in white and red. Cars all over suburban London are flying the flags, looking every bit like diplomatic vehicles (if that diplomacy includes throwing plastic chairs into Belgian fountains).

There are more England flags than I have ever seen. For decades people were afraid of flying it, thanks to the sinister associations it had with the National Front; slowly and surely, that association has been eroded. I hardly saw any in France 98, and for 2002 there were lots out alongside the Union flag, because the World Cup coincided with the Queen’s Golden Jubilee. By 2004, for the Euro in Portugal, the country had completely reclaimed the flag, and shops had cottoned onto this new patriotism in the same way that American shops had done, post 9/11. But this year? Five times as many, without a doubt.

But will they be up for long? Will England get very far, with or without Wayne’s foot? I hope so, of course, but I doubt they have been practising their penalties with too much enthusiasm. England cannot take penalties, and the Germans, unfortunately, can. So therefore I have predicted that England will go all the way to the Berlin final, dispatching Brazil along the way, where they will meet Germany, and it will come to penalties. The deciding penalty will be taken by Wayne Rooney, who will use his dodgy metatarsally-challenged foot, scuffing the ball weakly into scummer Lehmann’s arms. I’m so sorry, everybody. Mystic Pete has spoken. Enjoy the World Cup.