“Auld Reekie”, that is Edinburgh’s nickname. Back about four or five hundred years ago, the old walled city had little room to grow, so the buildings got very very tall – many still are. All these homes and all these chimneys gave out a lot of smoke, blanketing Edinburgh in thick smog, so locals would call it Auld Reekie – that’s ‘Old Smokey’ in the Scots tongue. A bit like the way London was referred to as The Smoke (I don’t know if people still call it that; perhaps it’s The Vape these days). I always thought Auld Reekie referred to the smell, like when something reeks, and it seems it was a smelly place, but no more than many cities. People would throw their toilet water out of those tall windows into the narrow streets shouting the phrase “Gardyloo!” which came from the French “garde à l’eau”, ‘watch out for the water’. By water we mean of course wee. I mean, listen I’d love to time travel, but I’d die of some vile disease within half an hour of time travelling back then, it sounds disgusting. I had all this history in mind (and in my ears thanks to the podcast I was listening to) when I got up early and went out to sketch this part of Old Town. I hadn’t slept that well, the apartment was nice but very warm, and the fan that was on had given me a dry mouth, and irritated my allergies so my nose was starting to run again. It was raining lightly. I walked up to the cathedral of St. Giles, which is the High Kirk of Edinburgh, to get my cathedral drawing in. I love to draw a cathedral, and this one has a very crown-like spire. Technically it is not a cathedral, not any more, not since 1689, when the Church of Scotland, which is Presbyterian, gave up having bishops, and therefore cathedrals. It’s still allowed to be called one though, because, what you gonnae do about it pal. It does date back to about 1184, long before they started calling it cathedral, and much later this was the church of John Knox, the big figure in the Scottish Reformation – I also drew his house, which will be in a later post (plus I think his brother Hard ran a school?) It started to rain while I was drawing this, so I stood a bit closer to the wall in an attempt to stay dry. That worked for a while, until it didn’t. I did most of it, then scarpered into one of the many alleys that branch off of the Royal Mile.

If you’ve been to Edinburgh you’ll know the sort of alley I mean. Through archways in many of the terraced buildings, you suddenly find yourself in a long passage that doesn’t just go through to another street, but down (or up) steps into a whole new level. Edinburgh’s old town is very hilly, many of the streets have to curve around to get over the steepness (“stepth?” That should be a word, I’m inventing it). These narrow portals cut through the town providing short cuts to those fit enough to brave the steep staircases, and they can also provide sudden photogenic vistas across the city. One such alley with a magnificent view is Advocates Close. We went through there on our first evening in Edinburgh and waited in line (I mean, not a long line) to take a photo looking down at the Sir Walter Scott Monument. On this morning when it started raining, I ducked into this now empty alley – save for the odd passer by with an umbrella – to draw the view myself. It was still before breakfast, and this sketch illustrated an aspect of Edinburgh any visitor would get to know. I listened to more Stories of Scotland, telling me about Greyfriars Kirkyard, which we would visit on a ghost hunting tour the next evening. When I was done here, I picked up some delicious cannoli from a little bakery on Jeffrey Street and headed back to wake everyone up, for a day of touristing.

This above is another thing found on the Royal Mile, which I only outlined while passing in the rain, but drew later on at the flat. The Heart of Midlothian is a mosaic made of cobblestones that marks where the Old Tolbooth once stood, outside St. Giles Cathedral. The Old Tolbooth was a big medieval building whose jail was a dreadful place by all accounts, and many executions took place there. Heart of Midlothian football club – Hearts – is named after this landmark. Sir Walter Scott (he of the aforementioned big monument) wrote a book called The Heart of Midlothian, referring to the Old Tolbooth. Apparently there is a tradition of spitting on the heart, either for good luck or to show disgust at all the executions that this place hosted. I decided against gobbing on the street, though I’m sure worse happens during the Fringe Festival.

Later that day, we were able to get tickets to go into Edinburgh Castle. Tip for tourists – if you ever go to Edinburgh and want to go to the castle, get those pre-booked tickets in advance because they will sell out fast. The castle was a hike uphill, past all the cashmere shops and whisky shops and shops where you can buy little cuddly Highland Coo or Nessie toys, but the view was great. We got the self-guided audio-tour, which in respect wasn’t as interesting as I’d have hoped (they rarely are, I never like standing there listening to those little plastic radios, when I could read a small sign much more quickly – in fact the small signs they did have often included QR codes to hear someone talking in Gaelic for example, on your phone). We explored the castle in depth, it was enjoyable, and interesting to see the room where James the Sixth / First was born. He was the Stuart King that was on the Scottish throne when Elizabeth I died and he was invited to also be the King of England, uniting the monarchies but not the countries, we were still a century away from the United Kingdom. So he was James VI in Scotland, and James I in England. There was a big queue to get inside this building to see the Crown Jewels, so my wife and son decided to do that while I decided to stay outside and sketch, having seen enough Crown Jewels at King Charlie’s Coronation. I did notice on the shiny plate above the door dating from 1993, two swords and the official royal cypher of Queen Elizabeth II, that is “ER”. Er… where’s the “II”? It should be “EIIR”. You all know this if you spent any time in Britain during the Queen’s funeral, or any time at all in the past seventy years. Except this is Scotland, and they didn’t have an Elizabeth I, so she can’t be Elizabeth II here, right? That’s apparently the case, I hadn’t even considered it. I noticed that a lot of postboxes don’t have the royal cypher on them either, just the crown of Scotland – except older pillar boxes did have a royal cypher, such as those of George V for example. From what I can tell it was down to what has been called the “Pillar Box War”, which was a dispute in Scotland as to whether Elizabeth II could style herself II in Scotland or not. There was a legal challenge, and in the end they decided it was Royal Prerogative for the Queen to bally-well call herself she bally-well liked. Still after a bunch of pillar boxes were vandalized, tarred, hammered, even blown up, Royal Mail decided in Scotland that new post boxes would just have the crown of Scotland on them and not any EIIR. I don’t know what will happen for King Charles III, but as all Kings Charles came after the union of the crowns (it was James VI/I who named his son something completely new, that being Charles I, ingeniously getting around the confusing numbering system). I don’t know what happened during the reigns of William III and William IV, since Scotland didn’t have a William I or II,  but perhaps in those days they were too worried about people throwing piss out of their windows to care much. I bet King William V won’t get his initials on the postboxes though.

My tribute to The Bruce. A Brucie next to Robert The Bruce.