two decades in Davis!

first sketch in Davis, at Mishka's, 2005

Memor esto, memor esto, Quintum Novembris. Today is the Fifth of November, which is Guy Fawkes Night / Bonfire Night to us British, but to Americans it is just plain old November the Fifth. It is also twenty years to the day that my wife and I arrived here in the city of Davis, having moved to California from London a month and a half before. Twenty years! 2005 was a different world. Today was a very rainy Wednesday, out of character in this otherwise quite sunny week. I was not sure how I would commemorate 20 years in Davis. I thought about making a short e-book with 20 years of sketches. I started making a video showing 20 years of sketches over some easy-listening music, to be a bit like The Gallery from Tony Hart’s old shows (why did he have to keep the kids’ drawings, why? That’s why I never sent mine in.). I thought about making a poster like I did for 10 Years in Davis. I even started a very long post featuring 21 drawings from the past 20 years (2005-2025 inclusive, that’s 21, do the Math. s.), one drawing from each year, with a little story about that year. That was getting very autobiographical, more than usual, and so I stopped. I might still do that some time, though I don’t know if it does you good to be too retrospective. I might still do all of these things. Instead what I am going to do is time travel back to 2005, not November but December, to the first sketches I did in Davis. Yes, it’s amazing I went over a month without drawing but things were different in those days. I didn’t yet have a job, or any money, and spent my time going to the library to use their computer to get online and write my blog, or emails back home. My wife heard about this thing called ‘worldwide sketchcrawl’, and that there would be a meeting of sketchers one Saturday in December, and that I should go to it, get me out of the apartment. Good idea. I went to Mishka’s Cafe on 2nd Street (which was about a block away from the current Mishka’s), and was very shy but I did a bunch of sketches, in my 2005 style. The sketch above outside Mishka’s is the very first sketch I did in Davis; there have been hundreds and hundreds since. I don’t know who that sketching guy was, but a couple of the people on that sketchcrawl (Alison and Allan) are people I sketched with for years afterwards. I went down to Covell Commons and drew Borders (remember Borders?), then moved through the Arboretum for the first time, finding my way to campus which I had not yet really explored except for Shields Library. As the day went on I sketched by myself, I was very shy, and in the end I didn’t meet up with the others to see what we had all done, I felt oddly self-conscious. But I like this little group of sketches now. It was a little while before I did more sketching of Davis, it was a slow start, not really getting going again until mid-2006 (but then absolutely I never stopped). So to celebrate 20 years living in Davis here are those sketches from 2005. Borders is long gone, I’m better at drawing those bridges (but still get them a bit wrong), I don’t know if those mysterious sculptures at the back of TB9 are still there, and I’ve drawn the Eggheads many times since.

Borders Davis 2005

eye on mrak egghead 2005

Anyway, I have officially been a Davisite for twenty years now. If you want to see the sketches that all came after these ones, most of them are in this Flickr folder: Davis CA. Happy Fifth of November!

Moe’s Books

Moe's Books Berkeley CA

There are certain themed subjects I like to fill my sketchbooks with if I can. The old urban sketchers rule that every sketchbook needs a dinosaur and a classic car, well I try my best there, even if the dinosaur is me. Fire hydrants, I try to sketch ’em all, like Pokemon Go. I never see people out playing that any more. Pubs, especially old pubs, I try to draw as many as I can especially in England, because they are all disappearing, like the Pokemon Go players. Tube stations, they might not be disappearing but some of the older ones are getting knocked down and expanded into bigger more modern stations, and I like those old historic buildings. Some of them. The other thing I always feel a great need to sketch are bookshops, independent bookshops preferably, as they play a major role in their local communities and are also constantly under peril. Before moving out here I worked for a small bookshop in Finchley in north London for a few years (not in the shop bit, but the office in the basement) and it was a good place to work (and I like Finchley as an area), but also a real insight into how hard it is for small businesses in the face of current market forces. They ended up closing less than two years after I moved out here and I wish I had at least sketched the store for posterity. Many other small bookshops were closing at the time, and replaced with what, more estate agents? So fast forward twenty and I’m pleased to see that, over here and over there too, there are still many small bookshops hanging on, and in many communities really finding their place again. The first place I worked when I came to California was a small independent bookshop, the Avid Reader, and they faced the challenge of Borders and Amazon until Borders went away and Amazon didn’t. They are still there (with new owners now) and always busy, I’d say one of the most important places in downtown Davis. However one of the first bookshops I went into when we first moved to America 20 years ago was this one, Moe’s on Telegraph Avenue, Berkeley. It’s a big store with new and used books over several floors, and feels like an old-school well-used bookshop. Anyway, Summer holidays had started and so one day I went down to Berkeley with my seventeen-year-old to get out of Davis and look around Berkeley, we spent our time walking about campus, visiting that big games shop, spending ages in record shops, and looking around Moe’s, among other shops. We were having those massive waffles at the place next door, and while waiting for them I dashed across the street to start a sketch of the bookshop. The big red and white awning is characteristic of this store. Inside I found a big old illustrated book about old myths and witches that I used to have when I was a kid, I would be obsessed not only with the stories but mostly with the drawings, which would inspire me to draw and write my own stories. I should have bought it, but instead I bought a copy of Snorri Sturluson’s Prose Edda for some reason. I had to stop myself buying this big illustrated book of Celtic legends (Celtic as in Irish and Scottish, not as in the football club from Glasgow, it wasn’t full of pictures of Henrik Larsson or Roy Aitken). I had to save some money to spend in Amoeba music. I’m glad to see Moe’s is still there and doing well, and now it’s another bookshop in my sketchbook. I see this though and it makes me hungry for those waffles.

amtrak to berkeley

Here are some sketches from the Amtrak train we took down to Berkeley from Davis. Above I am practicing my perspective as I always do on the train. There’s California outside the window, the view going over the Delta (the yellow bit on the right is higher than the eye-level yellow bit on the left, perspective fans, because of ‘hills’). It was a bit bumpy but I enjoyed sketching quickly in that brush pen. I sketched a couple of characters too, below, I mean passengers not characters, they are not in a story. Well maybe they are in a story, but who am I too judge. I’ve done a lot of quick people sketching this year, it’s good practice. I heard that they have recently ended the UC Berkeley-UC Davis shuttle connecting the two campuses, which is terrible news, especially as I never took it in twenty years of living here.

amtrak man amtrak man

logos books on the corner of the alley

Logos Books 122824

Last sketch of the sketchbook, not the last one of 2024. Logos Books is a good little bookshop downtown, they sell second-hand books and you can pick up some great bargains. They get their books from those donated to the Friends of the Davis Library, where people donate their books, I’ve done that myself. Logos hasn’t been here as long as I have, but there was a similar second hand bookshop here before wasn’t there? I remember Bogey’s around the corner where Bizarro now is. I just remember that first day I ever came to Davis, and looked around the shops downtown while my wife interviewed for a job at the university, I went into the soccer shop and talked Spurs shirts, and I went into the second hand bookshop and saw old language dictionaries and 1980s-era Berlitz phrasebooks, and the existence of those two things made me think it might be worth living here. Fast forward more than 19 years and Logos still has 1980s Berlitz phrasebooks and I still get my Spurs shirts from Soccer and Lifestyle. Back then, Spurs were on the way up and in the top four, and now… mate. To be fair we ended up fifth that season due to the dodgy lasagne, if I remember. I did like sketching this, a couple of people said hello and told me they followed my sketches on Instagram which is nice. I always get surprised by that. I have quite a few bookshops in that sketchbook, it was a very literary one. Started with one in Kauai, we had a few in London, and ended up with this one in Davis. You can see all the sketches from this book in this folder.

tamara’s book signing at jam

tamara's books

While I was back in London I went to a book signing at a small independent bookshop in Portobello Road. It was a special treat because the author was my old friend and German theatre pal from university, Tamara Von Werthern, who I’ve not seen in more than ten years. In fact the last time I saw her was on one of my Christopher Wren sketchcrawls in the City (the one in 2014), when she came along to sketch with her husband (also an artist) and young children. She’s a playwright with many published and performed works and in recent years has also become a detective novelist, writing a series of books in German based on her father Philipp; ‘Ich Glaub, Es Hackt’, ‘Ach Du Liebe Zeit!’ and the newest one, ‘Adel Auf Dem Radel’. These have even been included on the curriculum of the German department at our old school, Queen Mary, and she has been invited back to talk about them. The first two books have been translated into English, as ‘Only The Lonely’ and the most recently published book, ‘Silent Night’. It was this book that was being signed, and Tamara has done a series of book talks recently accompanied by her father visiting from Germany. I’ve seen Tamara post about her books for a few years now since the first one came out in Germany, but as I’ve not been able to get hold of any I hadn’t read them. So at the bookshop I took the chance to buy the first two in both languages (I will save buying the third German one for another time). I drew them (above) when I got back to America, and so far I’ve read the first one ‘Only The Lonely’ which was really fun with an interesting twist, well not a twist but a surprise I didn’t see coming. I am going to try to read the German original next; I am so out of practice with my German, it’s twenty years since I last visited!) but I’m looking forward to reading Silent Night. I kind of wish I’d read it over Christmas, but I’m a very slow reader.

Tamara von Werthern signing at Jam 113024 sm

Jam Bookshop was small but really well stocked in some great titles, and very much an artist-friendly shop. I did also buy a beautiful novelization of My Neighbour Totoro for my son (we both love the Ghibli films), as well as a zine about Rediscovering Colombo (apparently this was a thing during the pandemic; I did not know, but I had myself started watching them online too just recently. I’m getting into detective stories, reading a bunch of Agatha Christie books lately). I also got a couple of drawings on notecards (one of Totoro, one of Columbo) which were drawn by the shop’s owner. I didn’t realize he was the artist, David Ziggy Greene, until he offered to sign the back of them for me (though he signed mine to ‘Paul’), and he is a cartoonist for the magazine Private Eye which was very cool. Anyway of course I wanted to sketch Tamara actually doing the book signing near the front of the store, and she signed all four of my books, as well as signing the sketches I did. It was great to catch up with her after all these years; I had just run my first 10k the week before and she shared with me her own running stories. I sketched fast, preferring my second one (below), while people came in and spoke with her and bought her books. Very cool indeed.

Tamara von Werthern signing books Jam Bookshop 113024 sm

IMG_0794s,When it was time for me to move along and get sketching the rest of Portobello Road (and meet several other artists along the way, as it turned out), I did stop for a little while outside the shop and started drawing the exterior, which is actually inside an indoor section besides the market. I was thinking, I mist take my son here if we come back to this part of London, I think he’d like it (though maybe not the crowds of the market). Unfortunately, I saw their posts last week that the shop has closed. Being in that inside passageway did not bring a lot of foot traffic, and it’s such a hard time for bookshops these days (I used to work for an independent one in Finchley that is now long gone). I’m sorry to see it go but am glad I was able to visit and draw it while it was there. Tamara said they had been very good with supporting artists and local authors, and had moved form another location in east London.

Jam Bookshop Portobello 113024 sm

Anyway, despite that news, I’m glad to have been able to go to Tamara’s signing and hope that her books do really well, and I am looking forward to reading the rest. Finally – a fun fact, Tamara is the only person I have ever allowed to draw in my Moleskine sketchbooks. It wasn’t on this trip, it wasn’t even on that sketchcrawl, in fact it was on an evening out with friends in London in late 2009 at the Ship pub in Soho, when I had my purple pen and was not very comfortable drawing people, so she drew us instead.

a saturday down portobello

Ladbroke Grove tube station

On the last day of November, exactly a year since Shane MacGowan died, I found myself in Ladbroke Grove, heading to Portobello Market. I was going to a book signing by an old friend of mine from university at a little bookstore. I was up early; my Mum and I were playing the Pogues music in honour of Shane, and having a morning singalong with a bit of the Wolfe Tones on my ukulele, and then I headed out for my day of sketching and literature. I decided not to take the tube, but caught the 302 bus from the end of my street like I would do in the long-ago old days. I hadn’t been this way to Notting Hill in over 25 years, I think, changing bus in Willesden for the 52 towards Victoria. The 52 used to run all the way from Victoria to Mill Hill before they split the route in two. I sat at the top looking out of the window, trying to remember and recognize all the places along the way, seeing some of them in a new way as an urban sketcher. I must explore Kensal Green and its big old cemetery some day. I got out at Ladbroke Grove, which was already quite busy with foot traffic for the market, and sketched the tube station from across the road. It’s not the most visually exciting tube station, but worth sketching. I am really into sketching tube stations, and old pubs, and bookshops. I like sketching markets too, but they get so busy that I often shy away from it. I stood outside an estate agents; as I sketched, tourists stopped by to look at all the places that were listed, massively overpriced tiny flats in a massively overpriced massive city. Tour groups gathered outside the station. Portobello has always been popular with tourists; growing up Ladbroke Grove was always seen as a little bit rough, but definitely a big area of music and culture. I’ve only been to the Notting Hill Carnival once, on a baking hot day in 1996, and spending a day squashed in a slowly moving crowd that moved like a thick sauce through these wide streets before ending up watching Jamiroquai in his massive hat, that was once enough for me. I thought about that as I sketched. I am better in a crowd when I’m by myself. I headed into the crowded market looking for some food, and smelled out what looked like a delicious paella. It really wasn’t, and I ended up throwing it away. “More like a paella shite” I said to myself, making a mental note to remember that if I ever came back. I went to my friend’s book signing at the nearby Jam Bookstore (more of that in a different post).

Bookstall Portobello 113024 sm

After I left the book signing at Jam I went back into the busy world, and stood in between two parked vans to sketch this book stall. I had books on the brain, and also on my arm, carrying a bag with five new books in it. I didn’t have space to buy any from this stall, but they were getting a fair bit of foot traffic. As I sketched, there was a fellow behind me taking photos, photos of me sketching as it turned out. I didn’t much mind. He introduced himself to me and offered to message me the photos. His name was Trevor Flynn, and he’s an artist himself who has sketched around Portobello for years, and  runs a company called Drawing At Work (http://drawingatwork.co.uk/), he has got people out sketching for years. He also knew about Urban Sketchers London and has worked with sketchers I know. Always nice to meet other sketchers. In fact he told me he did all the sketching and storyboarding for the film Notting Hill, back in the 90s. I loved that film, I remember I had a really long and stressful day at university, I studied drama and they were usually long hours, and I would often stop at the cinema on the way home (either in Stepney or in Camden) to catch a film and relax, and this one night I watched Notting Hill and it cheered me right up.

Portobello artist market Tavistock Rd 113024 sm

I kept strolling further down the market; I had sketched down here last year so wasn’t necessarily going to do too much today, as I was heading towards Notting Hill Gate with the idea of walking down Kensington Church Street, but this colourful art market area on Tavistock Road caught my eye, especially the bits of orange on the trees in the background. Well I had to sketch the scene. As soon as I did, a lady in a pink high-vis vest came to talk to me, she told me this was something called Open Art Spaces (see openartspaces.co.uk), and these were all independent artists selling and showing their work, and she gave me their card (a Moo card; I had forgotten mine). As I sketched, I was joined by one of those artists, Chen Xi, who is also an urban sketcher. He is from Singapore but is in London doing a Masters, and he knew several of the Singapore sketchers that I have known over the years, even been taught by them. I chatted with him for a while sketching the scene, and when I was done I bought some of his cards and walked around the market talking to other artists and buying more cards, coasters, bookmarks. It was fun getting out and talking to people in my favourite city, I should do it more often.

Electric Cinema Portobello 113024 sm

I walked down Portobello with that Al Green song from the movie stuck in my head, though the seasons didn’t change, and I don’t look like late 90s Hugh Grant, well not much anyway. I saw the Electric Cinema and decided I really needed to draw that, with the Christmas trees for sale outside. I never saw a movie here, but I have a vague memory that they had a small bar here back in the 90s and I came in for a drink with an ex, though it might have been somewhere else, or maybe I imagined it. I’ve been dreaming about London for so many years now, I mean actual dreams when I’m asleep, that whole areas have grown that my sleeping self is convinced are real but actually don’t exist at all, built as if from broken Lego sets of real places and experiences; I wish I could draw them. There is a lot of London that I’ve not been to in over 25 years that I have almost entirely forgotten; later that week I walked around parts of Mayfair that I had honestly set outside my mind completely, not since I was an open-top tour bus guide, but when I walked through certain squares and down certain roads, memory and story came flooding back. In some cases, they trickle back, and it’s like that around here. Sometimes the mystery of memory is more exciting. I was standing next to a stall that sold quite posh looking ham, if memory serves (and we know it doesn’t), and the market was getting busy but I wanted to press on.

churchill arms kensington 113024

Down Notting Hill Gate I went, and there’s a lot to sketch around there, but I just wandered about, thinking about stories. I was near Campden Hill Road; back in the mid-90s I actually took an evening course in screenwriting here, not a very long one, but it was enjoyable. I remember quite liking the people in the class, and the teacher was nice, and I had to write a short screenplay; I think I wrote one about a priest meeting a woman, it wasn’t very original, and in fact the instructor complained it was too derivative of a TV show called ‘Priest’, which I had never seen, and didn’t sound like the sort of thing I’d watch. Then I wrote another about a woman who was in love with the grim reaper and would murder people to see him again; not very sophisticated, and my heart wasn’t in it. I’ve never written a love story since. I remember there was an Irish guy on the course who was writing a screenplay about the Battle of Brunanburh, but this was before I studied Old English poetry so I wasn’t really familiar with it, but I remember he did a good job. I should do more evening courses, though there’s not as much choice in Davis as there was in London, and I don’t know what I’d want to do. Not screenwriting again. I walked down to Kensington Church Street as I wanted to visit the Churchill Arms, or at least watch their Christmas lights come on. This is a famous pub, often winning pub of the year awards for its unusually over the top floral arrangements outside, though for the festive season they deck out in thousands of lights, and as you can see from the sketch lots of people gather to watch them come on. I stood across the busy street and drew fast. My waterbrush ran out so I had to add the paint in afterwards. As I sketched, a woman with a thick Texas accent asked me without prompting or introduction if I had visited the Tim Burton exhibition. I said I had not, and she proceeded to tell me I should go, because they had just been there and it was wonderful. She said my drawing reminded her of his sketchbooks, which was a surprise to hear. she then asked if I knew who Tim Burton was; now the thing is, whenever anyone I don’t know randomly asks me if I have heard of someone, my natural instinct is to say I haven’t, so I said “no; is he the guy who invented trousers?” It just came out; I was thinking of the clothes shop Burtons. So she listed all the films he had directed, and by this point I had to keep pretending I didn’t know who he was, in case she thought I was taking the mick, so I ended up making the “no, don’t know that one” face to films like Batman and Edward Scissorhands. I did like the sound of this exhibition though, and said I would try to go and see it; “Tom…Barton?” “Tim Burton, you’d enjoy it.” “Thanks, I’ll check it out.” “You should. Have a great vacation!” and off she went. It’s nice to meet people, I’m getting good at it.

prince albert pub notting hill 113024

I did want to rest my legs and have a festive pint before heading back to Burnt Oak though, as it was now dark and my legs were feeling weary. I stand when I sketch because I don’t like being hunched over on a stool, and getting some rest is good. The Churchill was packed, there was no room at the inn, even though the interior of that pub is on my list of must-sketch places. I used to go in there sometimes years ago and marvel at all the stuff on the walls and ceiling, the landlord was from Tipperary I think because I remember lots of Tipperary hurling memorabilia, had some good nights out in there years ago. They also did a lovely Thai curry, but no chance today. I walked about to some other little pubs I was surprised were still there, but didn’t look much like they did in the 90s, but I ended up in the Prince Albert, where a load of people were watching the football, Arsenal against a really bad West Ham. I sat down for a while with my back to the screen, nursed a pint and sketched them watching it, lads with no faces. The food smelled expensive and not very enticing, so I didn’t eat, and then I got the tube back home. It was a year since Shane MacGowan died, and I went back to Burnt Oak to spend the evening out with my Mum and some longtime family friends, and several pints of Guinness. That was a busy day.

back at the avid reader bookshop

Avid Reader 121724

Here’s the other sketch I did downtown last week, actually over the course of a couple of days because I was a bit cold (and busy) the first day, so went back and finished it off, adding some paint. It was busy downtown, there were lots of last few-days-before-Christmas shoppers, and groups of teenagers roaming about after the last day of school finished early, all the lads looking similar with that same haircut the teenage boys have now, you’ve seen it, the one with the fluffy looking hair and short sides. It was cold out, I had to go inside a few shops just to warm up, and buy more things. In Newsbeat for example I went in and got another little Jellycat (one of those cute stuffed toys, they import them from Britain), and it was packed, everyone in line was buying a different Jellycat. Good to see though. It’s nice to see downtown busy and healthy, and it’s shops like this we need, not more boba tea cafes or frozen yoghurt shops or chain restaurants, and not that I don’t use them myself, but I don’t want more of them replacing the useful shops. This is the popular Avid Reader bookshop (I have a number of bookshops in my sketchbook now, did some more in London) which is a great place to pick up Christmas gifts, books as well as other things. As I’ve mentioned before this was the very first place I worked in America, back when Alzada ran the bookshop (she sold the store just before Covid, and she died a few years ago), and I always enjoyed my experiences there, working part-time as the book-keeper and staying on even after I got my full-time job at UC Davis, right up to when my son was born. I used to like working in the evenings when there would be book events, I’d be upstairs working on the invoices, I did that same job in London at a bookshop, one that was a little less successful in the end, as it closed less than a couple of years after I moved to California after a few decades in business; it’s been a tough time for bookshops, so it’s great when we have one that is doing alright, and is a real fixture for the local community. I’ve even given a couple of talks here myself about urban sketching (one of them being a book talk for Gabi Campanario’s first book in which I was featured), and I did an ArtAbout exhibit in here as well, a long time ago now. It’s fairly different inside now than when I worked there, a lot more products on sale, but the outside still feels the same with that familiar old sign. So I stood on the street and sketched and thought about books. I really need to write a new one myself, maybe in 2025.

Kaua’i part 1 – Kalalau Valley, Hanapepe

Last month my wife and I took a long-awaited trip to the Hawaiian island of Kaua’i to celebrate our 20th anniversary. We had meant to go in September but ended up moving it to mid-October, which worked out nicely, as it wasn’t too crowded and the weather was great. Kaua’i is called the garden island, and you can see why. It’s a lot more lush and not as over-developed as some of the other islands, and geologically older. I counted that this is our sixth visit to Hawaii since 2017, and our fourth different island, after Oahu, Maui and the Big Island, all of them quite different. We landed in the evening, driving through the tree tunnel towards our hotel near Poipu Beach, and went straight out for a nice dinner at Keoki’s Paradise, having our favourite, Hula Pie. I got some Hula Pie stickers for my new sketchbook which I was starting on this trip, returning to the classic landscape format Moleskine (but this time with a white cover). On our first day we drove up to what’s called the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacific’, the Waimea Canyon. For such a small island there is a large amount of natural diversity and geology. We stopped at the Waimea Canyon Lookout and took photos, but there was no way I was going to be able to sketch it, it was enough just to look at it and try to take it all in. We have been to some amazing canyons in recent years and this was up there with them. We drove up further, through twisting tropical roads, towards the Kokee State Park. We knew that we would not get to view the famous and dramatic Napali Coast in the way that a lot of people see it – by boat (too long a trip), or by helicopter (no way man), or by small plan (aint gettin me in no plane sucker!) – and a lot of the hiking trails were closed due to them being a bit unsafe. However, the views of part of the Napali Coast from the elevated Kalalau Lookout were some of the most unbelievable that I have ever seen. We got out of the car, and it just didn’t look real. We stood there a while just looking at it. Or rather I started sketching it, which is the sketch at the top of this post (click on it for a closer view). The turquoise blue of the pacific, the hints of golden sand and red dirt, the verdant volcanic rocks, the jungle of plants and trees, and that one big cloud that was just sitting there all by itself right over the cliff on the left, like an airship waiting to depart. It was the furthest I’d ever been from Burnt Oak, geographically and in every other way too.  We took a hike up a jungle road about a mile to another lookout which was supposed to have even more amazing views. When we got there, it had fogged up, the clouds coming off the sea and into the valley blocking out all visibility. The magic view was gone, utterly. So we decided to wait, and see if it would burn off. A few other visitors waited patiently, some giving up, but I was optimistic. This was opti-mist. And slowly we could see some shapes, and even a hole or two of blue, and bit by bit the world opened up again, a little bit like in that show Catchphrase when you see a small part but have to guess at the whole picture. In the end, it looked like this, see below. I wasn’t Not a bad looking place! 

IMG_0044(1) - Lowres

We drove back down the long road out of the Canyon, and went to the town of Hanapēpē. It’s a small place with an old Hawaii feel, and I think it’s the inspiration for Lilo and Stitch, though I’ll admit I’ve not seen that film. There are a couple of painted murals of them. They call this the Art Capital of Kaua’i, perhaps for all the little gallery stores. We grabbed a simple but tasty lunch at a friendly place which served from a table in a doorway and sat outside, feeling tired already from our hike and drive. We walked over to a very cool little bookstore called Talk Story Bookstore, which is apparently the westernmost bookshop in the U.S.! They have a cat that rules the shop, and lots of stickers of the boss-cat called ‘Mochi-Celeste’ (based on the previous boss-cat). I spent a small fortune on stickers of all kinds. They sold records too, and comics. It was pretty busy, so I stepped out to sketch the place from across the street.   

Talk Story Books Hanapepe Kauai 101224

I walked a bit further down while my wife went into other shops, and I drew a quick one of the little church with the picket fence. I started getting a bit hot so I outlined and drew the rest later. We walked over to the Swinging Bridge, dating back from Hanapēpē’s days as a military town. It was a very warm day, and humid, and we drove back to the hotel to hang out in the pool before dinner in Kōloa (at the ‘westernmost brewery in the world’, Kauai Island Brewing). We were pretty far west, furthest west I have ever been. From here there is only the small island of Ni’ihau, but that is off limits to visitors. After that, you move into tomorrow. Far from home.

Hanapepe church Kauai

green apple and schubert

Capitol Corridor sketches 092824

I needed a day in the city, and wanted to explore another part of town. Davis was getting too hot, and it’s about 30 to 40 degrees cooler down there. I’ve been spending too much time under trees lately. I took the early Capitol Corridor, the familiar journey across the Valley and past the Delta and along the Bay, and I can’t help myself sketching those colours, it will never be enough. I have sketches of this trip going back a long time now. It’s all a learning process. I listened to, what did I listen to this time? Pulp I think, still in the excitement of having finally seen them play live after thirty years of waiting. I listened to another podcast interview with Jarvis Cocker where he talked about some of his favourite records, and how he never lost the love of vinyl as a format for listening to music, the side of a record being just long enough to experience it, before doing something else like reading a book. I see that. It’s how I felt growing up, when CDs finally came along I missed that ‘two-sided’ construction, but could see that bands in the mid-90s still tried to think of their albums in that way. I was thinking about records and books as part of my destination, though I didn’t think I’d buy any, because I only brought a small bag, and anyway I have too many and not a lot of space at home. It’s good to buy tickets to places where you can look at them and then draw things. I always worry that by spending so much time looking at and drawing things I forget to experience them as well, so I decided that I’d draw what I can, but not be too worried about it. So I arrived at the Transbay Terminal, the fancy bus station in downtown San Francisco, and found the bus that would take me straight out to the Richmond area, and up to Clement Street.

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Although I’ve heard about this place for years, I had never been to Green Apple Books, not this one anyway. I drew the smaller one over in the Inner Sunset about three years ago, another September day exploring the city. Clement Street and that whole area on the north side of Golden Gate Park was somewhere that in all these years I had never explored, it felt just a bit far away. The 38R bus got there pretty quickly. I passed by buildings I thought would make good drawings, and old pubs I thought I should take note of and check out some day. I got out somewhere up on Geary near 6th, and walked over to Clement to find Green Apple Books. Fellow sketcher Suhita Shirodkar had sketched the bookshop recently, which gave me the idea to finally come over this way, and it was a good place to explore. A day like this is a big effort, getting up early and catching a not-inexpensive train at 7am, not making it to my destination until about 10am, just to wander about until it was time to make the long journey back. It was foggy, and there were people around having breakfast or brunch depending on how organized they were. I ate a pastry and stood opposite Green Apple to sketch it. I was on a sort of elevated wooden platform where people can sit and drink their coffee, and could see over the parked car. It’s funny, when you stand near a parking spot, there is always the chance that a large car might park in the way to block your view, but I find that sometimes people think about parking there, but do not when they see me sketching. Those people are usually in cars that would not block my view anyway. Then there are those, usually in larger SUV-type cars, that don’t mind blocking my view if they park, even if they notice me. I don’t worry at all, these are occupational hazards of the urban sketcher and I just move down slightly (I am not standing there with an easel), it’s what I expect when I pick a spot to draw. It’s just an observation, I’m not making any judgements about the type of people who drive bigger cars being less thoughtful, and actually I would like to tell those who choose not to park where I am sketching that it really doesn’t block me at all if they park, I’d rather they got the good spot (and save it from a minivan or something). But really I think they just assume I am a traffic warden. Anyway, here I had a good view of the shop. I decided to do all my sketching before going in to browse.

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This impish fellow stands in front of the shop, holding a red book and a green apple. The bookshop is much bigger inside than I realized, and going up and down its stairs was like an adventure book in itself. My son would love this place, I thought. My teenage self would too, and after all when I was a teenager what would I do on a Saturday other than get on a train or bus and go exploring for interesting bookshops, usually finding myself in the foreign languages section. There were things I wanted, but I exercised restraint, and just bought a postcard with a painting of the shop on it, and a canvas tote bag for my son. Despite having worked in bookshops, I sometimes get overwhelmed by it all.

Schuberts Bakery Clement 092824 sm

Before I went into Green Apple, I decided to sketch the bakery outside of which I was standing. Schubert’s Bakery has been making cakes since 1911 and having eaten one myself I can confirm they are delicious. I got one in a little box, covered in all sorts of fancy chocolate, and had to go back in for a fork because it was bigger than expected, and filled me up so much I never ended up eating lunch. I could not get a certain song out of my head as I sketched, “Blue Suede Schubert” by the Rutles. A good bakery is an essential part of a good neighbourhood, I have always thought that. Somewhere for amazing cakes. Places that do not have this are very much worse off for it. If people end up getting the generic bland cakes from your Targets or Safeways or whatever, the world becomes a much more boring place. Show your local bakeries love! And eat lovely cakes. When I was done sketching and looking around this part of Clement, I walked down a bit further, where there was a local Chinese festival happening, with little stalls lining the street and music, and people canvassing for local elections. I found the bus that would take me further down Geary again and explored a different part of the area.

Primrose Hill Books

Primrose Hill Books

Here is another drawing from the series I made after getting back from London. That afternoon when I went to Primrose Hill, climbed up the hill to look over the view I had not seen in many years, remembering my days struggling at A-Level Art, then drew the Pembroke Castle and remembered my stag night twenty years ago, well I also had a stroll through Primrose Hill itself, another of those villages within London, the sort of place the American lead might end up in a romantic comedy set in a version of London where people say “fuck” and “wanker” a lot more than we actually do (and we do say those words a lot). I remember coming down here years ago and going to a really nice pub, and my friend pointing out Chris Martin from Coldplay and referring to him as “Travis out of Travis”, and I’ve called him that ever since. The road curves around and there are some nice little shops, as you’d expect in this romantic comedy part of town, and of course there was a nice little bookshop too called Primrose Hill Books. As a small bookshop lover, I was drawn here like a magnet. It’s very small, smaller than the one I worked at in Finchley (the now sadly long-vanished Finchley Books, where I was the book-keeper in the office downstairs before moving to America). I recognized that small independent bookshop smell, very warm and snug, and got flashbacks of trying to pay invoices to Bertrams or Taylor and Francis. A lot of small bookshops, a lot of small shops in general, just never made it in the end, so it’s always nice to see a real bookshop out there. I knew I would have to draw the place, and when I passed by again across the street I started to, but decided to just take some photos instead and draw back in California, as I needed to draw the Pembroke Castle and get off to Hampstead to pick up some photos I had developed at Snappy Snaps (like it was 2003 or something). This one isn’t on the stairs yet, I need another frame. I used a gold pen for the signage, which you can’t tell here but in the flesh it does shine. I am thinking about all the other bookshops in London, and elsewhere, I want to draw. Daunt Books in Marylebone for example, that’s long been on my sketching list. Finchley Books is long gone, of course, having closed in about 2006 or 2007, I can’t remember now, I still think about them.

a block of second street

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After Spring Break, the Spring Quarter began, another busy time but at least it wasn’t Winter Quarter. In my Quest To Draw Every Inch of Davis (not a real quest) I decided to go down to 2nd Street to sketch Logos Books, the little second-hand bookshop on the corner of the row, and Soccer and Lifestyle next door, the soccer themed shop that I first went into back in 2005 when we drove over to Davis for the day, and I wandered downtown while my wife interviewed at this university called UC Davis that I had never heard of until a few days before. I’m football shirt crazy, and I love a good book, so I’ve spent a bit of time in here over the years (admittedly quite a lot more time in Soccer and Lifestyle, I am really really obsessed with football shirts, I mean ‘soccer jerseys’), so a sketch of this block is long overdue. I came back a couple of days alter to draw the rest of the block, the part where Philz Coffee is located. I’ve never been in there, I don’t drink coffee (it’s not my cup of tea, literally) but I should pop in sometimes. Ach, I’ve really spent a lot of my time in this town. This used to be where De Luna jewellers was (that is what it was called isn’t it? The memory is going as the years get further away). I drew that once on a rainy day in about 2008, if memory serves (I usually remember drawings well enough). I stood outside the now-empty closed-since-covid Uncle Vito’s to draw this.

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