old east davis, the day before new year’s eve

January 22, 20253 Comments

A few more left from the last days of 2024. We are already into the most 2025 part of 2025 so far and I’m already looking back on 2024 wondering what the hell happened. The way I’m getting on with each day is by furiously drawing in the sketchbook as if my sanity depends on it, because of course it does. I am making good on my mission to draw all of Davis, though I get frustrated by the old adage that I’ve drawn it all. I haven’t drawn all of Davis, just enough of it so you get the general idea. I don’t go into Old East Davis that much, partly because it’s not that big, partly because I don’t really have a need to since I live in a different direction. For a number of years after first moving to Davis, this was my route home from downtown, though that time of life is so long ago now (of course it still exists in the archives of this sketchblog). It’s 2025 now, so that means I’m going to start approaching the ‘Twenty Years in America’ mark. The thought of that overwhelms me. The thought of everything overwhelms me really, which is why I focus on the sketchbook page, I guess. Anyway, this sketch above is one of those big historic houses that were built in the early years of Davis (or Davisville as it was then), the Schmeiser House. It was built in 1911 (so it is older than the Watling Estate where I’m from, in Burnt Oak, though we do have a Roman Road, Watling Street). When I say this is a sketch of the Schmeiser House, it’s only the porch and the front yard, most of the sketch is the view looking up I Street (which sounds like it might be Roman, like “I, Claudius”). I have drawn the Schmeiser House before, ironically that was on Dec 31, 2016, which was a time with a lot of parallels to now in many ways, except this time we know what’s coming, or we think we do. Now feels a bit shitter. It’s funny that I should draw this building at this same time of year in this same historical moment though, like its the subconsciousness telling me something. Incidentally this house has another nickname, a bit of an unfortunate one, ‘the Swastika House’. Theodore Schmeiser, who built the house, was a pioneer whose father Gottfried had emigrated from Stuttgart, Germany, and the brickwork on the chimney features a pretty big swastika motif. Now I know what you’re thinking, especially this week, and no it’s not just a ‘Roman salute’. In this case though it genuinely is a bit more innocent, the house was built in 1911, when you-know-who was still just a crap painter in Vienna, and the swastika was generally seen as a good luck charm, especially among Germans. Good luck with that now. Honestly though, it was not a big deal then because nobody thought it would become what it became. You see swastika motifs in a lot of old American civic buildings, and even here in Davis there was a local football team called, wait for it, the Davis Swastikas. They even wore big swastikas on their shirts. Like I say, good luck with that. Apparently they disbanded after a player broke his neck, probably not from mental gymnastics though like nowadays. The big swastika on the chimney here is hard to actually spot because it’s low down, and I didn’t draw it in this sketch anyway. The house is on the City of Davis Historic Pedestrian and Bike Tour, and of that list, I must have drawn almost everything now?

I also drew this house on 4th street, because I have to draw picket fences, and that tree was really quite the shape. I don’t know if there’s any particular historical story with this house, don’t know if there are any unusual embarrassing historical symbols in the chimney, it just looked nice. Then again I look at that list, and indeed this house is there: it is the McBride House, built in 1912 by E.S. McBride, a local councilman. By the way, back in 2017 for the centenary of the City of Davis I held a special sketchcrawl with a map showing all the pre-1917 buildings or places left in Davis, or as many as I could find anyway. I don’t know if I’ve drawn them all yet, but I’ve got to be close now. I must write a book some day, to celebrate twenty years in Davis. Now there’s an idea…

logos books on the corner of the alley

January 18, 20251 Comment

Last sketch of the sketchbook, not the last one of 2024. Logos Books is a good little bookshop downtown, they sell second-hand books and you can pick up some great bargains. They get their books from those donated to the Friends of the Davis Library, where people donate their books, I’ve done that myself. Logos hasn’t been here as long as I have, but there was a similar second hand bookshop here before wasn’t there? I remember Bogey’s around the corner where Bizarro now is. I just remember that first day I ever came to Davis, and looked around the shops downtown while my wife interviewed for a job at the university, I went into the soccer shop and talked Spurs shirts, and I went into the second hand bookshop and saw old language dictionaries and 1980s-era Berlitz phrasebooks, and the existence of those two things made me think it might be worth living here. Fast forward more than 19 years and Logos still has 1980s Berlitz phrasebooks and I still get my Spurs shirts from Soccer and Lifestyle. Back then, Spurs were on the way up and in the top four, and now… mate. To be fair we ended up fifth that season due to the dodgy lasagne, if I remember. I did like sketching this, a couple of people said hello and told me they followed my sketches on Instagram which is nice. I always get surprised by that. I have quite a few bookshops in that sketchbook, it was a very literary one. Started with one in Kauai, we had a few in London, and ended up with this one in Davis. You can see all the sketches from this book in this folder.

xmas day 2024

January 17, 2025January 17, 2025Leave a comment

And back to America. This is a sketch from Christmas Day, in my wife’s mom’s living room in Santa Rosa, the fireplace after all the presents and stockings had been given out. I had done my back in the day before crouching down on the kitchen floor to find pots and pans for our annual turkey roast on Christmas Eve (it was delicious, but agony). For Christmas in Santa Rosa we have crab. I had been worried that my back would mean I couldn’t go, but was alright on the drive over, and we did our annual presents thing. While people chatted afterwards I sat and played Christmas tunes on my ukulele and sketched the living room. We didn’t go away anywhere for Christmas this year. I’ve often thought it might be nice to have Christmas in somewhere like Salzburg or Norway, or one of those other places in the Rick Steve’s Christmas Special, but it’s a lot of planning, and you want to see family. In the evening we went down to see family in Petaluma, always nice. Next day we walked (or in my case limped) about Target buying half price wrapping paper, and my back started to feel a little better. I never miss the chance to go and get half-price rolls of wrapping paper, and I cannot resist immediately using the wrapping paper like a lightsabre, it’s literally impossible, even with a bad back. I like shiny wrapping paper, and always go for the good stuff, the cheap stuff can go for stocking stuffers. Another Christmas in California, but now it’s 2025.

by the stream in Watling Park

January 16, 2025January 17, 2025Leave a comment

And so, the last few sketches from my short trip back home to London last month. While at home at my mum’s if I wasn’t out on a sketching day or visiting my dad in hospital, I’d sometimes go for a walk around Burnt Oak to see what’s changed; quite a lot, some good, some not really. I still look for what’s the same. The park at the end of the street has never had the best reputation, but Watling Park is where I spent my childhood with my friends from our street and the kids from all the other streets, so I thought I should bring my sketchbook back down there, since 2024 was all about drawing trees after all. It was a damp gloomy decembrous day, my tummy was full of mince pies. I stood by the stream and drew trees going across it. The sketch below is what I drew first, a tree that had fallen across the stream, I sketched quickly in pencil and added paint right there. Across the stream a very excitable dog was running around and up to people, I think it was a Staffy, and the owners weren’t bothered if it jumped up at people. I wasn’t keen on it jumping up at me while I painted so I worked fast. They didn’t walk on this side of the stream though. The one above was drawn in pen, but I didn’t colour it in until the plane journey home. This part of the stream has walls into the stream (see below), while the section above does not, though I was in roughly the same place, just turned around. The tree that had fallen, I think that may have been the one when I was a kid that had a Tarzan rope attached to it so we could swing across. The stream is so narrow that a kid can jump across anyway (well, usually) but the Tarzan rope was always the more adventurous way. I spent so much of my childhood here, when I wasn’t indoors drawing. So did my older brother and sister, and my uncle Billy, I always think of him when I think of the Tarzan rope. The view above, that’s the park I know. That little arched bridge, this is the middle one, there are three in the park. The stretch of stream between that one and the one by the old Bowling Green was full of bushes and hideouts, an adventure playground for us. There were stingy nettles, but also dock leaves, that is where we learned that old medical trick to heal the stings. That stream is properly called Burnt Oak Brook (we knew it as part of the Silkstream, though didn’t know the word ‘tributary’ in those days); we just called it ‘The Stream’, and it ran over towards the Meads, past the allotments. It was full of little stickleback fish, shopping trolleys, bits of old bike. We used to try damming it up with sticks and mud and whatever we could find, to see how long the dam would last. The stream always came back.

The Silkstream itself flows through various parks and underneath Burnt Oak and Colindale, and was sometimes treachourous. We grew up knowing there were dangers when playing by the waters; I don’t mean in those public service shorts that would go out on kids TV in the early 80s, “Charlie Says” and so on. When I was about five or six, there was a horrible day when some children died in different parts of the Silkstream, not in Watling Park but further down in Silkstream Park and another park in Hendon I think. The water was high from the rain and deceptively strong. One of them was a boy, also called Peter, who lived in the next street over from us, he was in my year at school. It was the first time I’d really experienced knowing anyone who had died, other than my grandad, and at such a young age I didn’t really understand. I remember a lot of kids at school crying, and kids in our street being in shock. I think I was playing down Watling Park myself that day with my neighbours, in those days that park was our babysitter, if we weren’t at home or in the street outside, that’s where we could be found, don’t go beyond. What I didn’t know until recently was that when this happened, and people started to hear about it, some kids heard ‘Peter’ and assumed it was me (there weren’t many Peters in our area, a lot of Marks and Lees and Davids but very few Peters). They went to my house and told my sister they heard I had died in the stream. I can’t imagine what she must have thought. I think she went straight down Watling and found me, we don’t remember now, she always knew where to find me, and I was probably in my neighbour Tasha’s house, the other place I spent my childhood. She was close to Peter too, and his family, and we found it difficult to talk about it back then, we were all so young. It didn’t stop us playing by the stream, but only in this part of it, which always felt safer and closer to home, but that day definitely stuck with us. We as kids in the area never stopped thinking about him.

There are a lot of changes happening in the park at the moment. The big playground by Cressingham Road has been taken out, hopefully another one will go in because that’s the last playground in the park. However there are three big ponds being added, and new paths across what used to be the big fenced off sports field, but is now part of the park proper. and on top of the hill, it looks like a little bandstand or something is being built. Hopefully not just a place for the junkies to sit out of the rain. I hope these are positive updates for the park, what they have done to Montrose Park looks great, although they did build a sports centre over part of it too. London is great for parks and they need to be both protected and improved; Watling Park has a bit of a wild feel to it, but it wasn’t always that way. When I was a kid there were still tennis courts, beaten down though they were, and when my brother and sister were younger there was a putting green, I always wondered why they referred to the little patch of grass where we’d play football as a putting green. There used to be another playground near Abbots Road, I would be there every day on the swings or the see-saw, and that huge tall metal slide with the cage on top that would never pass a health and safety inspection these days, and whose metal slide surface would heat up to about 500 degrees on a hot day. Still better than those horrible plastic slides that generate enough static electricity to power a small car. We’ll see what it looks like when I’m next back. The drawing above is of another tree I saw on that walk, next to a row of houses on Fortescue Road, I really liked the ramshackle fences. I only had time to draw a quick outline, so in fact I drew most of this a few days later. I think I remember a schoolfriend lived on Fortescue and I went to their birthday party when I was about six or seven, but that’s all part of the blur of childhood.

Ok, back to posts and sketches from California. Until next time, Burnt Oak. See you in the summer.

a decembrous day in kew and richmond

January 14, 2025January 14, 2025Leave a comment

I had never been to Richmond, so when my friend Simon popped over to London from Dublin, I suggested we spend the day down there. I have heard it’s quite pretty there, some interesting scenes to sketch, nice by the river. We met at Kenton train station, and took the Overground train – the Lioness and the Mildmay lines, in the brand new parlance – down to Kew, where I have been before (coincidentally with Simon more than 20 years ago when we went to Kew Gardens). He is currently letting out a flat down there so knows the place well. Kew Gardens station is nice, worth a sketch but we pressed on, and walked from Kew all the way down to Richmond. On the way there we passed by the Gardens, and also the cafe above, ‘The Original Maids Of Honour’ (or ‘Newens’). We popped in and picked up a ‘Maid of Honour’ as a snack. The cafe dates back to the 1850s, but apparently the Maids of Honour date back to the time of King Henry VIII, and were made here in Richmond. What are they, well they are a little bit like custard tarts I suppose, little pastry cakes that were quite tasty. I had to draw outside while Simon took photos. Then we walked down the long road to Richmond town centre. I found myself coughing, my nose running, as though something in the air was setting off my allergens. Maybe it was the busy street, the proximity to Heathrow’s poor air, or maybe the variety of trees and plants in Kew Gardens, but something was setting me right off, just on that road. We popped into another cafe to use the bathroom and it started clearing up right away. By the time we got to Richmond, I was feeling better again, and it didn’t come back. Now if ever I am asked if I’m allergic to anything, I can say ‘the A307’.

The town centre in Richmond is nice, lots of shops and cafes and pubs. Despite being only mid afternoon it was already getting dark, or at least Decembrous, which is a word I made up for those gloomy times of day when it;s not raining, but feels dark, and yet festive too. Decembrous is nothing like the equivalent of a month later, ‘Januarse’. So far 2025 has been very Januarse all over. I found that well known spot in Richmond with the old pub and the phone box, where there are little alleys of shops near the big green. This little spot has been made famous in recent years by that show Ted Lasso, and there was even a Ted Lasso shop just further up. Honestly, I’m not a fan of the show. I watched it at first, and enjoyed it to a point, mostly because I really loved the original sketch from about 2013 or 2014 when NBC first bought coverage of the Premier League in the US (thank gawd they did too, it’s been great, far better than Fox Sports), and they advertised it with a little bit about this American coach becoming manager of Tottenham (Gareth Bale was still there, it was just before he left), and it was genuinely hilarious. The show itself, well that’s very popular but the more I watched it the more schmaltzy I found it, and I just had to give up. Plus I didn’t like how they use the word ‘wanker’, it’s really not how Londoners use it. Maybe in Richmond, not in Burnt Oak. Secondly, I hated the kit used by the club in the show, it’s a complete mess of a design, and no top level team would have that mash-up of colours. No, it doesn’t look like Crystal Palace. Red and Blue halves, ok, with a yellow trim, fine. White shorts, look, at a stretch, would look good on Palace, but with yellow socks??? Who came up with this kit-man’s nightmare? Not having it. Still, they had some pretty shots of Richmond, and it brings all the Americans here to say ‘wan-kerr’ over a pint and a game of darts. I enjoyed sketching here, Simon took photos (he is a great photographer) and we chatted, and then when I was done we went for a walk down the Thames. The riverside walks are lovely here, though the banks have a tendency to overflow. There’s one pub called the White Cross which regularly lends out wellies so customers can leave the pub safely.

On the way there we stopped into this bookshop, The Open Book, which was just the perfect size to eb sketched from outside. I had seen my fellow urban sketcher from the early days Cris Urdiales (from Malaga) had posted a sketch she’d drawn here a week before on Instagram, and so I was excited to stumble across it, and showed them Cris’s sketch. Simon was inside talking to the staff while I drew outside for a bit, and when I went in I resisted temptation to buy any books, instead buying loads of amazing Christmas cards. They had such a good range of them. They had a great selection of books too, I could have been in there for hours exploring. As it is, we needed to get back to the warmth of the pub, and headed back to the place I’d sketched already, the Prince’s Head, for a lovely London Pride. It was a nice day out in Richmond, but the rain was starting on this Decembrous day, so we got the train back into central London and met with old friends for dinner and drinks in Camden Town.

OpenBookRichmond2024

pretty seven dials and ugly pink riders

January 13, 2025January 12, 2025Leave a comment

A different day in London now, and after doing some work at home in the morning I made my way to Covent Garden to meet up with my friend Simon, who I had not seen since his stag party a year and a half before, and who was visiting from Dublin for a couple of days. We met at the cafe of the London Transport Museum, I love going to their shop and I picked up a fantastic festive hat. I wish I had bought the matching scarf too, but instead I settled on the socks which I wore on Christmas Day. You don’t need to know that. We then popped into the Freemason’s Hall, which I had heard you could go into, and looked around at all the masons’ stuff. You can’t wear hats in there, so my new hat was not allowed, yet there were lots of other items of silly clothing on display. We felt a bit out of place. I don’t really understand all the Freemason stuff, the secret handshakes and whatnot, but it was interesting looking around at the museum, all the information about past famous members and all the trophies; we are a Spurs fan and a Newcastle fan respectively so the well stocked trophy cabinets made us feel a little awkward. We went and had a little bit of lunch and a Belgian beer at the Lowlander Cafe, before he had to go and meet up with his dad for some shopping (and I had to go and meet my dad for hospital visiting hours). Before I took the tube up to Barnet though I walked through Seven Dials (which I kept calling Nine Dials) and sketched the pretty scene with the golden-leaved trees. It was very nice, until about seven or eight of those bloody awful unlicensed rickshaws pulled up outside a theatre, presumably to catch people coming out of a show, and all started blaring ‘Dancing Queen’ by Abba at the same time on their individual speakers. I say at the same time, they weren’t all in sync, so it was just an aural mess of Abba, completely ruining the xmas atmos. Each one of them was decked out in garishly pink frills, designed as if to say “we think you are stupid and will stupidly ride around on this stupid tricycle for stupid money”. I hate these things. If I were Mayor of London I would ban them, and anyone caught doing it would be forced to ride their tricycle all the way to Scotland, going on all the B roads and everything, and then ride around the hardest estate in Glasgow or somewhere, playing bloody Dancing Queen. They prey on tourists, I always read stories about people getting in them and then suddenly being charged 300 quid to ride from a hundred yards up the road by a threatening man with a frankly scary pink vehicle. And sure people might say, well they are part of London now, that’s just what you do, we’ve had pedicabs for ages and tourists want the loud colour and music and don’t mind paying for ten minutes of dodging traffic and pavements and pedestrians. Personally I think they’re awful ugly noisy things, and they ruin any charm Central London still has. You won’t see me in one any time soon. Bah humbug indeed.

advance to mayfair

January 12, 2025Leave a comment

Mayfair is one of those parts of London I’ve frankly ignored for too long. Last year we nearly walked around there, to find the Mercato that we’d heard was cool, but after looking walking over to Savile Row to see where the Beatles played in 1969 on the roof, we ended up catching a tube to St. Paul’s for a walking tour of the City (those Blue Badge guides know their stuff). So I had it on my list to explore this area finally, for the first time in I don’t know how long. It’s that big area full of big super expensive buildings and flash cars, embassies and posh hotels, more Rolls Royces than you can dream of, all bounded by Park Lane, Oxford Street, Piccadilly and Regent Street. That’s a big area and it’s not all the same (I am not even sure all of it is ‘Mayfair’, except in the geography of my mind, but we call it that). So on this trip, I decided to make an effort to explore Mayfair again. I actually used to come through here almost every day, twenty-five years ago, on an open-top tour bus, telling the same old stories, waving at the barber, humming the Nightingale song in Berkeley Square song because I didn’t know the words (or the tune) (or the title, evidently), pointing out where the Queen was born (not the original building) and where Jimi Hendrix used to live before he died. Those well-rehearsed yarns have faded in the memory but not as much as the streets themselves; walking around it was like reading a book I had not read since I was a kid, knowing the lines and the characters but still being completely surprised by the story. I was certainly surprised by the little red Mini parked outside a fancy hotel, covered in a Christmas tree, people were stopping to take photos and so I had to grab a sketch. All along the street were expensive cars, this was Grosvenor Street. The Grosvenors are the big cheeses in this part of central London, and many other parts too, they are the Dukes of Westminster. The Grosvenors built this whole area, as well as Belgravia. This street leads up to Grosvenor Square, formerly the location of the massive U.S. Embassy, and the last time I was there, and in this part of town, was in 2005 when I completed my application for Permanent Residency, and had to go to the Embassy, hand in all my paperwork, have a little interview, pledge allegiance with my hand up (that was odd, did that happen?) and then it was all good, I can go ahead and live in America, and I’ve been doing that ever since.

I found the Mercato Mayfair, an incredible food court inside an old church. There are lots of different options from around the world as well as a bar over where the altar would have been. It was done up all festive for Christmas, and I grabbed some south-east Asian food and a fruity soda and had a late lunch/early supper. I still had a lot of drawing I wanted to do in Mayfair, and the daylight was already getting short. I walked over to Duke Street, near the magnificent Ukrainian church (how had I never seen this building before?) to the unusual Brown Hart Gardens. I’ve seen these on walking tour videos (tall tales about elephants being kept here) and one of the Urban Sketchers London events was around here a year or so ago, and I had really enjoyed all their sketches of these domes. I stood among the rich people in nice clothes and sketched. Behind me three suited men talked loudly about work, all business and deals and masculinity. I would have found it hard being a Man of Business, not the life for me guv. The sunset was causing all sorts of colours to appear in the sky, and made the buildings look as if they were made of gold, which they probably are.

A lot of the buildings nearby do look pretty golden. I found myself walking down past the Connaught Hotel, which is a five star hotel that looks like it needs a few more stars added to that description. I didn’t draw it this time, but I did stand outside the Pasticceria Marchesi across the road on Mount Street to sketch the beautiful window display. Their cakes were more like crowns or ornate cushions, and there was a line out of the door. This terracotta building was designed by William Henry Powell and I seem to remember having to say something about Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee when talking about it on the tour, back in the days when Queen Vic was the only one who’d ever had one.

The next stop was Berkeley Square, of the aforementioned song about a nightingale. I had forgotten how big this square is, and even though it was already dark I was amazed at how beautiful it was. I’d honestly not been there since swinging past on a Big Bus pointing out all the Ferraris. The one story I always had to mention were the London Plane trees, as there are a lot of them here, trees that were strong and particularly resilient to the infamous London pollution. I had to sketch one of course, in pencil this time, another tree for the collection. I imagined walking through here on a smoggy evening in Victoria times with horse drawn carriages and top hats and gas-lamps. Now it’s Bentleys and Maseratis, and I did notice that many of the map-posts have been converted into special chargers for electric cars, they just plug them into the lamp-post. We live in the future now my friends. I pressed my nose against the Ferrari showroom checking out a car that costs a quarter of a million quid.

Finally, a famous old pub on the corner of Bruton Street, near where the Queen was born (I suppose these days I should say ‘Queen Elizabeth II’ rather than just ‘The Queen’ in case you think I mean Camilla, or Taylor Swift), at Number 17. The Coach and Horses is the oldest pub in Mayfair, and history pours off of it. I didn’t go in this time, but I’ve been inside many years ago with my mate Tel. I have wanted to sketch this pub for years, another in the mock Tudor style (see my sketches from earlier that day for more of that) so it was always going to be my final destination, but as I stood on the other side of the street drawing the outline, and red buses and taxis passed between us, I ended up just drawing the outlines and scribbling the rest in later, as I had to catch a tube and a bus to Highgate Village. It was a nice stroll around Mayfair, well worth the 400 quid in Monopoly money. I mean, pound for pound, square foot for square foot, it’s the cheapest place on the board.

liberty’s before lunchtime

January 11, 20252 Comments

While in London last month I took a day to sketch and explore Mayfair, and area I have not really walked around in a long, long time. It’s good to not stick to the same places each time I go back. However I wanted to start my day somewhere more familiar, draw a lot of old timbered beams, and maybe do a bit of Christmas shopping along the way. I have sketched Liberty’s of London before, but it was a long, long time ago, when I drew smaller snippets of buildings, and in that case not very well. It’s such a big old building, a massive department store in mock-Tudor behind Oxford Circus station, that you want to spend the time to really catch all the details. I chose a spot on Great Marlborough Street that looked down Kingly Street on the right, a street well worth a day of detailed sketching in itself (but which I always associate with fancy bars and cozy pubs, having spent a few evenings down there with friends back in the old days either drinking cool cocktails among media types or room-temperature beer among tourists). It’s an intriguing little corner of the sketch that, like a window that you open on an advent calendar. There’s a fun idea for an advent calendar, one that for each window, you are taken to a new place full of other windows. I’m not sure how it would work but I can imagine quite a bit. The sun was blue and the sky was shining, there were clouds dotted about to make it more interesting for me when I drew the little triangle of colour on the top left. I wasn’t sure how much colour I would add to this drawing, it being an essentially black and white building, so I just added spots here and there, such as the golden parts (with my gold gel pen) and flags. Unfortunately I did not colour all the trees in, just putting in some green, the uncoloured ones were purple. I should have added that, I’m not averse to colouring-in later after all (I’m the king of colouring-in later, saves so much time on those days of exploration), but I never got around to it and the moment’s passed. Purple is very much the corporate colour for Liberty’s, though at this time they were also very invested in green as they were promoting the movie ‘Wicked’, and had large displays about it in their windows and interior. The whole sketch took me about an hour and fifty minutes (yes not quite two hours, I was determined to finish by midday and press a hard stop, though I spent some time faffing about taking pictures of it). I did go inside and look around, bought some Christmas ornaments and stocking stuffers in their amazing festive department on the top floor. I don’t remember ever walking around here before, it’s very wooden and unusual inside, well worth a look. Some of the things they have for sale are a bit expensive mind, the designer goods. I’d like to make a point of sketching more of the big old department stores of London, I drew Fortnum’s already, now Liberty’s. I tried to draw Harrod’s last year but it was covered over with scaffolding (to hide their shame presumably, given news reports about their former owner) and then there’s Selfridges on Oxford Street. I always took that for granted, but when I passed by it later on this day I remembered how absolutely immense it is, so I’ll leave that for another time.

IMG_1013(1)s

I could have spent the day sketching just around this little corner, looking across Regent Street with this winter sunlight hitting things just right. Carnaby street is nearby, but I don’t like it there much any more, it’s too bland, and there are just not any football shirt shops any more. The best was SoccerScene, a shop that did more than anything to enflame my lifelong obsession with interesting foreign football teams and their shirts (and their metal pin badges, they had a huge array of those). I remember further down Great Marlborough Street there used to be a fantastic foreign language bookshop, the best one in London, and when I was in college I spent a lot of time there looking at all sorts of interesting books in French, German, Italian, Danish, whatever was tickling my linguistics at the time. It’s gone now. Grant and Cutler, that was it. It seems they have merged with Foyles and have a section of that massive bookshop on Charing Cross Road, but I miss the feel of that other place. Anyway I was wasting time reminiscing in nostalgia again, I had to go to Mayfair.

I’ll put the Mayfair sketches in another post, it’s only fair, but this is another timbered building that I drew next, the Mason’s Arms on Maddox Street. It’s opposite a really interesting church which I’ll draw another time called St. George’s Church Hanover Square. This is across Regent Street, and I came across here rarely, probably feeling that this part of town was not for oiks like me from Burnt Oak. People get progressively richer with each passing square foot. I think I only had about a square foot of pavement to sketch on, the streets were a little tight, probably why they’re so rich eh. All the old tour guide jokes coming out now. I remember going down Regent Street on the bus once talking about Soho when an American tourist asked me why it was called Soho and is it named after the SoHo in New York. I said no it isn’t, that area is a contraction of ‘South of Houston’, whereas the one in London is ‘South of Hoxford Street’. After finishing my sketch of the Mason’s I popped in to sit down and grab a drink. I ended up not eating, saving my appetite for the Mercado in Mayfair which was my destination, but it was a nice little pub, historic (1721, though rebuilt as it looks now in 1934 in that Mock Tudor style; a new Lego set has just come out which reminds me of this, I might have to get it). The Rolling Stones had offices on Maddox Street and used to record at Chappell Studios a few doors down, as did the Beatles occasionally. It’s good to read the signs on the pub wall.

afternoon tea at fortnum’s

January 10, 20252 Comments

One afternoon while in London I took my Mum for tea at Fortnum and Mason, on Piccadilly. It was an early treat for her birthday, something festive to do before Christmas. I took her there once before years ago (I think the prices were about half what they are now) and have wanted to take her again for ages. It’s up in the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, though to get up there you need to brave the packed store full of Christmas shoppers and squeeze into the tiny elevator. It’s lovely though, and I still put Fortnum’s among my favourite London shops. During the pandemic for Mother’s Day I ordered a hamper for my mum and another one for my mother-in-law which had to be shipped over to California, they do really nice tea and cake hampers. Piccadilly at this time of year, the start of December, is even more crowded than usual, but I don’t mind. It means London’s doing alright. We walked about a bit looking at expensive cars in the Lotus showroom (they had Ayrton Senna’s old F1 car), expensive jewellery at Bentley and Skinner, and expensive glassware at the Lalique store in Burlington Arcade. I took the opportunity to draw Fortnum and Mason from across the street, as during Christmas time the whole store is made up to resemble an advent calendar. As you may know, I have a long history of making advent calendars so the idea of turning an entire building into one makes me happy. A lot of people were stopping to wait for the little statues of Mr. Fortnum and Mr. Mason to come out from the ornamental clock and tell us what time it is. Fortnum and Mason dates back centuries, 1707 in fact, the time of Queen Anne, Fortnum being one of the Queen’s footmen. I sketched for a while as my Mum looked around some shops, and by the time I was about done there was a woman who had set up a little camera on a tripod to film herself talking about the Bible and singing psalms, fair enough but when they get a microphone out and start going on about sinners that’s enough for me. Anyway it was time for our tea. We each got the regular Afternoon Tea with scones, sandwiches, cakes and tea, as much as we could eat and drink, and we ended up taking many of our cakes home with us and eating them over the next couple of days, they were quite rich and filling. We started off with a drink called a ‘turtle dove’, a kind of cocktail that was so good, a nice way to kick off Christmas. For tea I had the Afternoon Blend, Mum had the Queen Anne. I think, I can’t remember now. I think I had a couple of different types actually. I had to draw the teapot and cap along with a cake that looked like a present. When we were done I spent more money downstairs picking up a few things here and there to bring home for family, but I could have got so much nice stuff. My Mum bought a nice Fortnum’s ornament for my wife (when they wrapped it, it was like that scene in Love Actually with Rowan Atkinson and Alan Rickman), and I bought chocolates and tea and fancy greeting cards. I bought a lot of fancy greeting cards on this trip, Britain does the best ones, by far. So that was our tea at Fortnum’s, a nice treat and a very festive thing to do before Christmas.

tamara’s book signing at jam

January 9, 2025Leave a comment

While I was back in London I went to a book signing at a small independent bookshop in Portobello Road. It was a special treat because the author was my old friend and German theatre pal from university, Tamara Von Werthern, who I’ve not seen in more than ten years. In fact the last time I saw her was on one of my Christopher Wren sketchcrawls in the City (the one in 2014), when she came along to sketch with her husband (also an artist) and young children. She’s a playwright with many published and performed works and in recent years has also become a detective novelist, writing a series of books in German based on her father Philipp; ‘Ich Glaub, Es Hackt’, ‘Ach Du Liebe Zeit!’ and the newest one, ‘Adel Auf Dem Radel’. These have even been included on the curriculum of the German department at our old school, Queen Mary, and she has been invited back to talk about them. The first two books have been translated into English, as ‘Only The Lonely’ and the most recently published book, ‘Silent Night’. It was this book that was being signed, and Tamara has done a series of book talks recently accompanied by her father visiting from Germany. I’ve seen Tamara post about her books for a few years now since the first one came out in Germany, but as I’ve not been able to get hold of any I hadn’t read them. So at the bookshop I took the chance to buy the first two in both languages (I will save buying the third German one for another time). I drew them (above) when I got back to America, and so far I’ve read the first one ‘Only The Lonely’ which was really fun with an interesting twist, well not a twist but a surprise I didn’t see coming. I am going to try to read the German original next; I am so out of practice with my German, it’s twenty years since I last visited!) but I’m looking forward to reading Silent Night. I kind of wish I’d read it over Christmas, but I’m a very slow reader.

Jam Bookshop was small but really well stocked in some great titles, and very much an artist-friendly shop. I did also buy a beautiful novelization of My Neighbour Totoro for my son (we both love the Ghibli films), as well as a zine about Rediscovering Colombo (apparently this was a thing during the pandemic; I did not know, but I had myself started watching them online too just recently. I’m getting into detective stories, reading a bunch of Agatha Christie books lately). I also got a couple of drawings on notecards (one of Totoro, one of Columbo) which were drawn by the shop’s owner. I didn’t realize he was the artist, David Ziggy Greene, until he offered to sign the back of them for me (though he signed mine to ‘Paul’), and he is a cartoonist for the magazine Private Eye which was very cool. Anyway of course I wanted to sketch Tamara actually doing the book signing near the front of the store, and she signed all four of my books, as well as signing the sketches I did. It was great to catch up with her after all these years; I had just run my first 10k the week before and she shared with me her own running stories. I sketched fast, preferring my second one (below), while people came in and spoke with her and bought her books. Very cool indeed.

IMG_0794s, When it was time for me to move along and get sketching the rest of Portobello Road (and meet several other artists along the way, as it turned out), I did stop for a little while outside the shop and started drawing the exterior, which is actually inside an indoor section besides the market. I was thinking, I mist take my son here if we come back to this part of London, I think he’d like it (though maybe not the crowds of the market). Unfortunately, I saw their posts last week that the shop has closed. Being in that inside passageway did not bring a lot of foot traffic, and it’s such a hard time for bookshops these days (I used to work for an independent one in Finchley that is now long gone). I’m sorry to see it go but am glad I was able to visit and draw it while it was there. Tamara said they had been very good with supporting artists and local authors, and had moved form another location in east London.

Anyway, despite that news, I’m glad to have been able to go to Tamara’s signing and hope that her books do really well, and I am looking forward to reading the rest. Finally – a fun fact, Tamara is the only person I have ever allowed to draw in my Moleskine sketchbooks. It wasn’t on this trip, it wasn’t even on that sketchcrawl, in fact it was on an evening out with friends in London in late 2009 at the Ship pub in Soho, when I had my purple pen and was not very comfortable drawing people, so she drew us instead.